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Green Adjective Gully
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Sinsemilla Crack T 
Stitches T 
Stormy Resurrection T 
Stranger Than Friction S 
Subordinate Claws TR 
Surprise Ending T,S 
This Is Almost the Place T 
Touch Up T 
Trinity Right T 
Unreliable T 
Wheeler Route T 
Wheels on Fire T 
Wheels on Fire Direct T 
Why Me? T 

Touch Up 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bennett & Huerta '80
Page Views: 5,155
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 5, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Touch Up: Clipping the piton on the traverse flake...

Description 

Touch Up is a great climb, nearly deserving 3 stars. It is best done as 2 medium length pitches, but could be done as one (rope drag may be an issue, there are some big traverses). Start in the large right facing dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective. This is the same start as Perhaps and Gordon's Hangover.

P1) Follow the first 50' or so of the Perhaps route, and where Perhaps traverses right, Touch Up traverses left instead. Follow a flake 15' to 20' left out to the next face over, clipping a fixed piton along the way. From the end of the hand traverse, mantle onto a small ledge with a fixed anchor. This traverse is pumpy and is the route's crux.

P2) Climb the slab with one bolt above, then work into the dihedral. Follow this up a small ways, soon turning a corner. On the upper face, head leftwards and climb yet another fun hand traverse flake. This flake trends leftwards, with a final committing move to the fixed anchor.

Descent) One double rope rap gets to the ground. Alternatively, single rope rap to the top of pitch one, then one more single rope rap to the ground.


Protection 

Standard rack, emphasis on small to medium pro. One piton on the first pitch, and one bolt on the second pitch for fixed pro.



Photos of Touch Up Slideshow Add Photo
Some of my good friends climbing the second pitch of Touch Up.
Some of my good friends climbing the second pitch ...
Coming around the exciting bulge on on Pitch 2 on Touch Up
Coming around the exciting bulge on on Pitch 2 on ...
David S. coming up to the second pitch hand traverse.
David S. coming up to the second pitch hand traver...
Touch Up. Pitch 2
Touch Up. Pitch 2
Mooner following P1 of "Touch Up"
Mooner following P1 of "Touch Up"
On the crux traverse, pitch 1 of Touch Up.
On the crux traverse, pitch 1 of Touch Up.
Another pic of the crux traverse, pitch 1 of Touch Up.
Another pic of the crux traverse, pitch 1 of Touch...
Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
BETA PHOTO: Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
Comments on Touch Up Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 18, 2014
By Neal Carroll
Oct 13, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think for the second pitch alone, this route is 3 stars. Very diverse climbing in a great position with a cool committing finish. However, the first pitch, while fun, detracts from the overall quality.

By Nathan Fisher
Apr 3, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The pitch 1 traverse is scary and has thin protection. A micro-nut, followed by a yellow Metolius (I believe), the piton and pump it out. Holding off on the # of stars til I climb the second pitch.

By Nathan Fisher
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great Exposure on pitch 2. I believe the start of the second pitch is not the one bolt slab, but the bolted crack on the left. Regardless, great variety on this route and some serious committment.

By tenesmus
Nov 13, 2005

If you're in a hurry this makes a nice warmup for the area. If you use long runners, avoiding placing at the right-most apex of the first pitch and back clean the anchors of the first pitch (once you've clipped the bolt above...) you can do it and get back to the ground with a 70m rope. Be aware that as you're lowering off the climber may have to downclimb the initial 10 feet of the dihedral if you place gear too far from the fall line. A 70m TR easily reaches without the gear.

Also, be aware that on windy days your rope may blow around to the left and out of reach and you'll have to re-climb the route. (this sucks and has happened to me twice in the pitch dark...)

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

one pitch w/70 meter rope is the way to go. climbing the slab/arete w/single bolt will help w/rope drag

By shakey
Mar 27, 2008

should get more stars than it does... face climbing with gear protection for the first pitch, thin gear but good holds (fun climbing but risk of falling on the low angle slab of gordons if you blow initial moves)... second pitch can be done up corner (more akward climbing) or straight up bolts, both good with awesome finishing traverse! must do

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 22, 2008

Original route follows the corner on P2. The bolts up the arete variation are actually part of Stitches (see Stitches). But using the arete variation for Touch Up does reduce rope drag.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

as has been said- link 'em up for an AMAZING pitch of climbing!

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Anchor bolts on top of P1 replaced on 10/23/09 by Mike White (ASCA). The right bolt, which seemed like the solid one, came out with one minor tug. Scary.
The 2nd pitch is beautiful and really exciting.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Like Boissal says...the 2nd pitch is beautiful!! A must do pitch.

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Definitely climb the arete variation on the second pitch. The few moves you make give some airy exposure and more varied climbing. Head straight up from the belay to a bolt. Climbing it this way allows the route to be climbed in one pitch, due to reduced drag. The dihedral is a little awkward.

Both Pitches are fantastic.

By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 30, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Excellent climb! Found exiting the hand traverse on the 2nd pitch rather unique. Perhaps because I had mantled it, and making the walk around the arete puts you off balance.

Highly recommended, easy to protect.

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'm going to say it: I liked this climb more than Gordon's Hangover - if Gordos is a 4 star route, this def should be, too IMO. Both pitches are relatively short, but the moves are absolutely phenomenal. The step-around traverse at the end of P2 is so good! P2 was just as fun as the first, I thought.

By Kevin Chuba
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Grade holds true like a stout breakfast beer. Don't get gripped at the traverse with the pin and welded nut. Take a look at the wire on the nut for condition and terms: A friend of mine will always know how scared I was on this gem.

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
May 1, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Just as a note to the previous comment: the fixed nut is gone. Also, someone has put a very obvious, bright perma-sling on the pin. This is really unnecessary, as you won't pass the pin without noticing it, and if you're worried about drag just extend your runner. Presto.

By bheller
From: SL UT
May 2, 2014

I think someone keeps leaving a sling there because when the pin is clipped it cross-loads the biner on the rock. I usually just girth hitch the eye of the pin.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Most people who get on this route are too pumped to thread a sling through the eye of the pin by the time they get to it... If the fixed sling is gone they'll throw a draw on there and as BH pointed out cross load the shit out of the biner. The fixed sling isn't there for the half-blind climber who manages to not notice the pin, it's there to prevent the flailing leader from exploding a biner and parts of himself.

By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did it in 2 pitches. Bring slings to cut down on rope drag. I only placed a #.5, #2, and a draw on the sling on the flake on the 1st pitch. 2nd pitch I just went up the arÍte, clipped the draw on the bolt, did the mantle and placed a #.4 w/ a sling, got over the top, went left into the next flake where I placed a #1, a #2 up higher and then mantled the flake. Then moved left, slapped the arÍte with a high foot, hit a fingerlock, then hit the chains. The exposure is awesome and the gear is very obvious and easy to place on this route so I highly recommend it!! And if you love to campus and love heel hooks then this route has plenty of opportunities for that!! Pretty cool!!

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2014

Posting every move and placement you made on a route? Please, please . . . stop doing that.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jun 18, 2014

I agree, absolutely no need for a move by move, piece by piece trip report, some folks may want to onsight this and are reading comments only to make sure the route is safe and not sandbagged.