Touch Up 5.9+
| 3,691 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Bennett & Huerta '80 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Apr 5, 2004 |
| |
Touch Up: Clipping the piton on the traverse flake...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Touch Up is a great climb, nearly deserving 3 stars. It is best done as 2 medium length pitches, but could be done as one (rope drag may be an issue, there are some big traverses). Start in the large right facing dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective. This is the same start as Perhaps and Gordon's Hangover.
P1) Follow the first 50' or so of the Perhaps route, and where Perhaps traverses right, Touch Up traverses left instead. Follow a flake 15' to 20' left out to the next face over, clipping a fixed piton along the way. From the end of the hand traverse, mantle onto a small ledge with a fixed anchor. This traverse is pumpy and is the route's crux.
P2) Climb the slab with one bolt above, then work into the dihedral. Follow this up a small ways, soon turning a corner. On the upper face, head leftwards and climb yet another fun hand traverse flake. This flake trends leftwards, with a final committing move to the fixed anchor.
Descent) One double rope rap gets to the ground. Alternatively, single rope rap to the top of pitch one, then one more single rope rap to the ground.
Protection Standard rack, emphasis on small to medium pro. One piton on the first pitch, and one bolt on the second pitch for fixed pro.
On the crux traverse, pitch 1 of Touch Up.
|
BETA PHOTO: Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
|
Another pic of the crux traverse, pitch 1 of Touch...
|
Some of my good friends climbing the second pitch ...
|
David S. coming up to the second pitch hand traver...
| |
By Neal Carroll
Oct 13, 2004
rating: 5.9
| I think for the second pitch alone, this route is 3 stars. Very diverse climbing in a great position with a cool committing finish. However, the first pitch, while fun, detracts from the overall quality. |
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 3, 2005
rating: 5.9+
| The pitch 1 traverse is scary and has thin protection. A micro-nut, followed by a yellow Metolius (I believe), the piton and pump it out. Holding off on the # of stars til I climb the second pitch. |
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.9+
| Great Exposure on pitch 2. I believe the start of the second pitch is not the one bolt slab, but the bolted crack on the left. Regardless, great variety on this route and some serious committment. |
By tenesmus
Nov 13, 2005
| If you're in a hurry this makes a nice warmup for the area. If you use long runners, avoiding placing at the right-most apex of the first pitch and back clean the anchors of the first pitch (once you've clipped the bolt above...) you can do it and get back to the ground with a 70m rope. Be aware that as you're lowering off the climber may have to downclimb the initial 10 feet of the dihedral if you place gear too far from the fall line. A 70m TR easily reaches without the gear.
Also, be aware that on windy days your rope may blow around to the left and out of reach and you'll have to re-climb the route. (this sucks and has happened to me twice in the pitch dark...) |
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.9+
| one pitch w/70 meter rope is the way to go. climbing the slab/arete w/single bolt will help w/rope drag |
By shakey
Mar 27, 2008
| should get more stars than it does... face climbing with gear protection for the first pitch, thin gear but good holds (fun climbing but risk of falling on the low angle slab of gordons if you blow initial moves)... second pitch can be done up corner (more akward climbing) or straight up bolts, both good with awesome finishing traverse! must do |
By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 22, 2008
| Original route follows the corner on P2. The bolts up the arete variation are actually part of Stitches (see Stitches). But using the arete variation for Touch Up does reduce rope drag. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| as has been said- link 'em up for an AMAZING pitch of climbing! |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Anchor bolts on top of P1 replaced on 10/23/09 by Mike White (ASCA). The right bolt, which seemed like the solid one, came out with one minor tug. Scary.
The 2nd pitch is beautiful and really exciting. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 PG13
| Like Boissal says...the 2nd pitch is beautiful!! A must do pitch. |
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.9+
| Definitely climb the arete variation on the second pitch. The few moves you make give some airy exposure and more varied climbing. Head straight up from the belay to a bolt. Climbing it this way allows the route to be climbed in one pitch, due to reduced drag. The dihedral is a little awkward.
Both Pitches are fantastic. |
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 30, 2013
rating: 5.9+
| Excellent climb! Found exiting the hand traverse on the 2nd pitch rather unique. Perhaps because I had mantled it, and making the walk around the arete puts you off balance.
Highly recommended, easy to protect. |
|
RSS Feed
7 more...
Slideshow
