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Touch of Teflon 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis 1988
Page Views: 2,644
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BETA PHOTO: The Teflons w/o lines

Description 

This is one of all time favorites. It is on the east face of Challenge. It is near the south end before the gully begins. When you get to the fork in the trail, look south and you can see a nice angling hand crack in an arete, just left of this is the face with 1 bolt. This climbs that face utilizing the bolt. It starts right of the bolt and after getting to the bolt it meanders left and then continues up. This is a balance game, pure and simple. How well can you pull up and then place toes in the same crack as your hand. Also you need to be able to stand up from this crouched position with no hands and continue up to find the spaced cracks. This is a wonderful but short climb. Again 3 stars would work but for the length.

Protection 

2 chains atop the climb for a good top-rope. 1 bolt on the face. If you can make it to that bolt, bring a couple of small cams or nuts to protect the horizontal cracks the rest of the way.


Photos of Touch of Teflon Slideshow Add Photo
Close to the top on Touch of Teflon
Close to the top on Touch of Teflon
1)  Teflon Technique  2)  Touch of Teflon  3)  Dai...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Teflon Technique 2) Touch of Teflon 3) Dai...
Eric on Touch of Teflon
Eric on Touch of Teflon

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 11, 2014
By Nathan Fisher
May 25, 2005

I finally red-pointed this today. Gear recommendations: .75 Camalot, Purple DMM Micro-Cam, bolt, Metolius #3, Metolius #2. This route felt well protected with all this gear. Enjoy this lead.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 12, 2005
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Gear Alert
I think it would be a 3 star if it were just longer. Begins a little powerful and finishes on good jugs.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 16, 2005

That bolt is an old buttonhead, but fine. No need to panic!!! I whipped on it and I am 6'4, 255. A fine candidate for replacement, but not super sketchy.
By Polly
Aug 6, 2006

don't let the 10d rating scare you away from this one. i don't feel that it is a true 10d based on other Big cottonwood climbs i've done. One of my all time favorite climbs though- maybe just a 5.9+. fun balancing moves all the way to the top. Crux for me was just after the bolt.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jul 10, 2007

Didn't feel too difficult to me, but then, I only TRed it. Quite a few fun variations, you can start below to the left or right of the bolt, and head left or right above it.
By john richards
From: salt lake city UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

fun climb! short. All i did was put a #2 metolious master cam in a few feet above the bolt than walked it to the chains. feels more like a boulder problem.
By Aimee Bates
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is one of my favorite climbs. Thought provoking and balancy moves on thin egdes. Good place to work on footwork and grace : )
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Lots of fun, and not as intimidating as it first appears, once you know the moves. It's all there.
By Pete Spri
Jun 9, 2010

This route is fun, definately worth doing!

The crux is low, before the bolt... feels more like a boulder problem. After that, mostly edging with some positive horizontals.

Small cams are the way to go for protecting this route (tricams could work too).
By John.Brimley
Jun 10, 2011

This is an amazing climb. It feels like some high-ball bouldering without the danger. When we climbed this we TR'd it after going up Daily. This face is covered with interesting problems and is worth trying from a few different angles. It you want to work on edging and little crimpy ledges then you will love this face. Short and sweet. Also the belay is in the shade during the morning.
By Paul Wilhelmsen
From: sandy, ut
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Guess I like to sew things up , but I placed the following gear in order from ground up.
1. Orange #3 metolious
2. 00 metolious
3. Bolt with long runner
4. .75 bd x4
5. Yellow #2 metolious
After the number 2 it's cruiser up to the anchors.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I love thin, technical, slabby climbs, and this one is no exception. Went up and left after the bolt and it felt closer to the 10d rating, whereas up and right seemed easier. Very fun route.
By Mike Marmar
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a great lead. Good gear and good stances to place from. It can be entirely protected with tricams if that's your thing.