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Unknown Pleasures
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Unknown Pleasures S 

Touch of Grey 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Bleyl
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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About a third of the way up.

Photo by Kip Henrie.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fine line on less-than-fine rock for part of the way, with stellar stone from about halfway on.

The line starts by curving to the left, apparently to avoid even poorer rock. At the third bolt the line heads more or less straight up for several bolts, but eventually trends back to the right. The whole line is a shallow C-shape.

There is a good rest on the route but you'll have to be willing to find it. Otherwise, the sections before and after the rest are fairly sustained, with only a few shake-outs here and there.

And just when you think you've got it made...the ending section appears. As the Ruckmans say "A little harder if you're shorter."

Location 

After arriving at the base of Unknown Pleasures continue along a trail to the right. Round the outside corner at the right side of the first east-facing wall and head up hill a bit.

The next east-facing wall has a ledge at its base, up to which you'll need to scramble.

A Touch of Grey is the left-most route on this wall. There is a 2-chain belay anchor. This route starts just to the left of the belay anchor.

Protection 

12 bolts, chain anchors.


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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Aug 23, 2012

This a long route with one very big rest then another smaller but useful rest just before the last 2 bolt crux section. Before you get there there is a very thin section that will wake you up - it has very small hand holds but with good feet and requires good balance.

The upper crux is just plain intense - you just feel stretched out on it, reaching for holds and stretching the feet. The reward is some awesome jugs to the chains. Very long and exposed in a setting that is superb.