Touch Monkey 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Eric Johnson, Hank Caylor, Paul Glover |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Mar 28, 2002 |
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Patty follows Touch Monkey (11b) on Der Zerkle in ...
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Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September MORE INFO >>>
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Description Another fun little sport climb in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. This route ascends inviting huecos up a slightly bulging face in the Court, an alcove on the S side of Der Zerkle, a short way past Square Rock. From NCAR, hike up the Mallory Cave Trail until this route is visible on your right.
Power up a fun, slightly overhanging wall with huecos past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is one slightly longer reach mixed in here. Rossiter's guide mentioned a fixed wire that I did not find in situ. Just to the right of this route is another slightly easier, bolted route, Knot Carrot.
Protection 3 QDs for 3 bolts, a wire might be useful, and slings for the anchor.
Jason clipping on Touch Monkey.
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Said beginning the short crux of Touch Monkey.
Ph...
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Mike Burdon on Touch Monkey.
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Ryan exiting the crux.
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A free solo of Touch Monkey by Matt Lloyd. Great f...
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By Scott Hudson
Dec 20, 2004
| What a shame that someone is messing with the great sport climbs on Dinosaur Mt. So many good climbs that see so little traffic due to the hike. These are all historically significant climbs. Hopefully, there is such a thing as Karma and the chopper(s) will pay for their actions. |
By XOG
Feb 14, 2005
| As of Feb. 13th Touch Monkey has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed. |
By XOG
Feb 14, 2005
| I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best possible manner - just that this gear is new and as yet completely unused. |
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Apr 5, 2005
| Good to see the new hardware up there but why go to all that work and leave the first ring bolt as is?? |
By Cody Munger
From: Carson City, NV
Aug 25, 2006
| The first ring bolt is a scary clip. Quite reachy from an awkward stance. A sling can be put around a small horn about 12 feet up from the ground, though it doesn't do much good if you fall during the first clip. |
By Paul Glover
Sep 7, 2009
| Alternate way to climb Touch Monkey: head left at the third bolt on jugs, then up right off a thin wafer, make a slightly pumpy clip, then head straight up. Better than Touch Monkey. Punch Monkey is 11c/d. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Aug 13, 2011
| The first bolt isn't a ring bolt anymore, but it still seems like it could unclip itself. The bolt is your only stop before the ground, so this is one of the few times I just put two opposing quickdraws on the first bolt. I'm probably just paranoid. WAAAAYYY easier than April Fools, but really fun! |
By George Bracksieck
Jun 11, 2012
| The second bolt can be clipped from easy ground before your commit to the action. |
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