Touch A Cannibal 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Lurker on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>
On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route may have another name, but not that I'm aware of. A linkup of a couple different routes, including Cannibal Gully and Touch And Go; has enough independent climbing that it deserves its own spot in here. P1: Head up offwidth-looking crack on left side of Cannibal Gully. After ~60', traverse right across face to chain anchor at base of dihedral. P2: Climb 2nd pitch dihedral of Touch and Go. Belay at end of slabby section. P3: Head up corner to Lizard Ledge (Touch and Go climbs crack on face to the arete). This corner has cleaned up nicely, and is the money pitch. Crux of route is the last move to gain Lizard Ledge. P4: choose any Lizard Ledge exit pitch.
Location Starts at base of Cannibal Gully, on far left side of Black Wall. Walk off to left.
Protection Gear to 4". Fixed anchors at top of 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches.
| Comments on Touch A Cannibal |
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By Patrick Mulligan Apr 11, 2013 rating: 5.9
| I don't really know if this route is a separate route or if its just a variation to Touch and Go. 10 years ago this crack / corner was filled with choss,moss, and loose flakes. The last time I climbed T&G I climbed the corner because it looked like it had cleaned up so well. I stayed in the corner all the way to the top. I found this line more aesthetically pleasing, easier, and better protected than the original line of T&G. The stemming at the top is just plain wild. 10a seems like a stretch. This thing felt like pure 5.9 to me. |
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