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This route really has two variations, but they are considered different routes using the same bolts. The harder variation goes straight up on thin holds and is rated at solid 5.12. The route associated with the name "Tottering into Antiquity" goes right at the sixth bolt and attempts to maintain a contrived line that allows you to clip the bolts, but it does NOT go into the route "Chip Off the Block". These efforts alone afford the 5.10 rating. The only saving grace for this route is that the rock quality is high. You might as well just do "Chip Off the Block" though. The 5.12 variation looks HARD.
The bolt line located to the right of "Fire It Up" and to the left of "Chip Off the Block".
Eight bolts to chain anchors.
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
The new Bob D. guidebook calls this a 3 star 11a, but I wouldn't agree. It is quite a bit easier and 1 to 2 stars.
|By Jason Young|
May 30, 2012
I agree. It looked great from the ground. Perhaps the lack of chalk up high should have clued me in. I've noticed way too many discrepancies and omissions in the Bob D. guide. Next time I won't let all the pretty pictures be the sole basis for buying a guidebook.