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Toto 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,760
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 18, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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summit pitch

Description 

Climb the obvious wavering crack up to a bolted belay, continue up some bolts to a hanging belay


Location 

right side of the diamond to the left of a plaque


Protection 

nuts to 3"



Photos of Toto Slideshow Add Photo
Adrienne Kentner following the steep 5.10- fist crack on pitch 5.
Adrienne Kentner following the steep 5.10- fist cr...
Adrienne Kentner on the excellent 5.9+ 4th pitch corner
Adrienne Kentner on the excellent 5.9+ 4th pitch c...
5.9 fingers of the 4th pitch (offwidth variation to the right) at about midnight. Cool climbing at midnight without the headlamp
5.9 fingers of the 4th pitch (offwidth variation t...
Pitch one of Toto breezes by as Melissa enjoys her second day out on the rocks since recovering from a fall in the gym that left her with a broken back.
Pitch one of Toto breezes by as Melissa enjoys her...
Another view of the 2nd to last pitch - fingers (9+). Taken by Brian Prince
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the 2nd to last pitch - fingers (9...
Adrienne Kentner on the 4th pitch of Toto
Adrienne Kentner on the 4th pitch of Toto
The pain doesn't entirely stop Shasta as she grimaces through an offwidth variation near pitch four of Toto (named Beastiality I believe?) in Archangel Valley, Alaska.
The pain doesn't entirely stop Shasta as she grima...
Steve Garvey Memorial Plaque at the base of Toto
Steve Garvey Memorial Plaque at the base of Toto
Comments on Toto Add Comment
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By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

P1 -- 5.8ish. Start left of the Steve Garvey plaque (which is to the right of the toe of the buttress. For those that don't know, this route goes up the 'prominent' prow of the formation across the valley from the outhouse) , and climb face and cracks to a little ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Starting even further left in a short corner that soon meets up with the other start is possible too.

P2 -- 5.7. Climb straight up and pass some cool cracks. Belay at a big boulder with bolts in it. You should be able to actually walk down to the ground via grass ramp to your right.

P3 -- 5.7. Head up and right on vegetation/slick rock and then back left until you can safely gain the arete proper. Pass a few bolts on the arete until you reach a bolted anchor at the base of a nice, but short, crack in a corner.

P4 -- 5.9. Climb the crack/corner with perfect rock, and find another bolted anchor on the giant ledge. This ledge sits below another nice looking crack with pretty, orange, solid granite (P5)

P4 variation -- 5.10, I haven't done it, but it sounds really cool (look in the picture). Which makes it a shame that these two great pitches are side by side and not on top of each other. Head right at the bottom of the corner to reach it and then up until you are at the previously said anchor.

P5 -- 5.10. Climb up the crack that can be a little wide. Kelsey says, in his guide, that there is a bolted variation to the left. Haven't done it. Heard it's fun. The crack is really fun though. Bolted anchor on top.

P6 -- 5.9ish. Optional to get you on the summit. Walk across the vegetation being careful not to knock down rocks. You can head up wherever looks fun/safe. I'm not sure where it actually goes. We climbed two diagonal running cracks (one for hands and one for feet) around the corner to easier ground. This was fun.

Descent -- Rap the route until you can walk down the grass ramp. Random rap anchors are everywhere. Off the route and on.

By ozman
From: CO / NM
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

If you like crack climbing, pitch 4 and 5 are great. The variation to pitch four on the right is a burly offwidth too. This makes for a great day climbing.

By Jason Moncrieff
Jul 9, 2011

This route is one of the most popular and classic routes within Hatchers Pass. Upper 2 pitches are the best, and are rated 5.10. Lower pitches are 5.8ish.

There are two other pitches near the upper pitches. Bestiality is a wicked short offwidth to the right. (bring one or 2 #5's). To the left, there is a 5.10 bolted line.

By Richard Shore
Jun 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Brian's description above is spot on. The route is equipped with bolted rap anchors set for a single 60M rope. The last few splitter pitches are short but excellent! Rack I'd bring next time - 1/2 set nuts, single set of cams to 4", doubles 0.5 & 0.75 camalot for the 5.9+ 4th pitch corner.