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> Polney Crag
> Main Cliff - Right
Totenstarre
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Main Cliff - Right
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Barefoot Beginning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Bollard Buttress T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Bollard Buttress Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chute, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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End, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spirochaete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Springboard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Terminal Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Totenstarre T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Euan Cameron, Neil Stewart, June 1989 |
| Page Views: | 517 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Euan Cameron on Sep 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
1. Climb the wall to the right of the corner up to the overlap. Pull over the overlap, and continue on the slab above using small holds. Belay at the right of the large ledge.
2. Start behind a tree and climb up the corner, until possible to move left into the middle of the steep wall. Make hard crimpy moves up the steep wall until near the top when you can move right to an in situ peg runner. After the peg continue with a couple more tricky moves on a left facing flake.
Once your feet are on the slab above the overhanging wall the climbing eases - finish up the slab.
2. Start behind a tree and climb up the corner, until possible to move left into the middle of the steep wall. Make hard crimpy moves up the steep wall until near the top when you can move right to an in situ peg runner. After the peg continue with a couple more tricky moves on a left facing flake.
Once your feet are on the slab above the overhanging wall the climbing eases - finish up the slab.
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