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 ADVANCED
South End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Different School of Thought T 
Birds of Prey T 
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 
Candy Corner T 
Drop Zone T 
Ecstasy T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 
LSD Direct T 
Muscle Beach T 
Simple J Malarky T 
Sixth Sense T 
Skyline Traverse T 
Southwest Buttress Variation T 
Spinnaker S 
Sunshine T 
Superstition T 
T & T T 
Tony's Nightmare T 
Totem T 
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 
Unsorted Routes:

Totem 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Stannard, 1971
Page Views: 1,031
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

P1: Climb the low angle buttress to reach the shuts under the large obvious Totem roof (5.5).

P2: From the belay, head up and left passing several pitons to reach the crack in the roof. Back up the pins as good as possible, but use caution not to steal your key handholds with gear. Pull the roof(crux), to gain a stance. Anchors are up and to the left. (30 ft).

P3: This is a great pitch, it's even worth aiding the roof to do this long pitch. From the belay, head straight up the buttress, passing several small overhangs with great gear and wonderful moves. (150 ft)

Location 

Locate the large cave on the south end and head east toward Candy Corner and Ye Gods. This will be the first buttress that you come to.

Protection 

Standard Seneca Rack, shuts at top of pitch 1 and pitch 2.


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By Alex Mandrila
From: Ypsilanti, Michigan
Sep 16, 2014

The first pitch (5.5) makes a great first lead or toprope for new climbers. Also, I confused the glue-ins at the top as the anchors for this route. There are shuts slightly to the left.