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Road Cut, The
Routes Sorted
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Crack A No Go T 
Curvy Crack T 
Easy Street S 
Escargot T,S 
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Hit and Run S 
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Penguin Lust S 
Spaceman Spiff S 
Totem Pole S 
Transmogrifier S 

Totem Pole 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jonny Woodword
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 1,389
Submitted By: urs on Jul 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Col Mustard cruising Totem Pile (5.11b) on a not s...

2014 nesting closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route was for many years a very scary lead with huge runouts and loose terrain until someone (?) cleaned it up and bolted it. Now its a very enjoyable route with a mixture of crimps, slopers, pockets and knobs. The route ascends the obvious arete just left of Transmogrifier. With the route cleaned up and bolted it is starting to see alot of traffic and it is a good warm-up before hopping on Spaceman Spiff or some of the other hard routes at Roadcut.

Location 

The route is just to the left of Transmogrifier on the obvious arete.

Protection 

The protection is all bolts with a two bolted rap anchor on the top. The route requires a 60m rope or longer to get down.


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RIP Totem Pile
RIP Totem Pile

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 15, 2015
By Colonel Mustard
Feb 9, 2015
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

CONDITION REPORT 
Apparently, almost all of Totem Pole/Totem Pile has recently collapsed during wet conditions. Basically, it appears the whole upper "totem pole" feature collapsed onto the road. RIP, Totem Pole, you were well loved by the climbers who knew you.

Now, who's up for the FA of "Totem Hole"?
By Stonebhikku
From: boulder, co
Feb 11, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

CONDITION REPORT 
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

some informative pictures in the ST thread, really a bummer to see this gem go, loved the position and the movement was just as good. I wonder if there will be anything left to climb after its cleaned in its place, also curious as to if transmogrifier was damaged at all?
By Dra-go-nee
Aug 26, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think if Hit and Run is an 11b, then this one deffinately scores 11b. A little bit harder and more committing than Hit and Run and a huge step up from escargot.
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
May 1, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

10 bolts plus one old piton, so eleven clips total. Full sixty meter rope.
By Lurker
Mar 13, 2012

Rumor has it that a decent chunk of this route fell off last winter, and is now a few grades harder....guess that's what you get at a roadcut.
By Colonel Mustard
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

The piton was replaced by a bolt, only some twisted iron remains. Two fixed draws. Glad it was retroed, since it's an awesome sport line.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 12, 2014

Johnny Woodward bolted this line ground up and onsight.
By John Jackson
Jan 13, 2014

Johnny Woodward led this route ground up, reported to be without bolts, for the first ascent. He was strongly opposed to adding bolts to this, runout, route. Fortunately/unfortunately the only place where it was possible to get some pro in, sketchy and way up the route, fell off (and became a safer route). Subsequently the whole route was retro bolted and renamed from Totem Pile to Totem Pole.
By Colonel Mustard
Feb 14, 2014
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

Fortunately.
By slk
From: Reno, NV
Feb 15, 2015

R.I.P Totem pole...