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Road Cut, The
Routes Sorted
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Totem Pole 
Transmogrifier 

Totem Pole 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jonny Woodword
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: urs on Jul 25, 2008
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Col Mustard cruising Totem Pile (5.11c) on a not s...

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Description 

This route was for many years a very scary lead with huge runouts and loose terrain until someone (?) cleaned it up and bolted it. Now its a very enjoyable route with a mixture of crimps, slopers, pockets and knobs. The route ascends the obvious arete just left of Transmogrifier. With the route cleaned up and bolted it is starting to see alot of traffic and it is a good warm-up before hopping on Spaceman Spiff or some of the other hard routes at Roadcut.


Location 

The route is just to the left of Transmogrifier on the obvious arete.


Protection 

The protection is all bolts with a two bolted rap anchor on the top. The route requires a 60m rope or longer to get down.



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By Dra-go-nee
Aug 26, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I think if Hit and Run is an 11b, then this one deffinately scores 11b. A little bit harder and more committing than Hit and Run and a huge step up from escargot.

By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
May 1, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

10 bolts plus one old piton, so eleven clips total. Full sixty meter rope.

By Lurker
Mar 13, 2012

Rumor has it that a decent chunk of this route fell off last winter, and is now a few grades harder....guess that's what you get at a roadcut.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

The piton was replaced by a bolt, only some twisted iron remains. Two fixed draws. Glad it was retroed, since it's an awesome sport line.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 12, 2014

Johnny Woodward bolted this line ground up and onsight.

By John Jackson
Jan 13, 2014

Johnny Woodward led this route ground up, reported to be without bolts, for the first ascent. He was strongly opposed to adding bolts to this, runout, route. Fortunately/unfortunately the only place where it was possible to get some pro in, sketchy and way up the route, fell off (and became a safer route). Subsequently the whole route was retro bolted and renamed from Totem Pile to Totem Pole.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 14, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Fortunately.