Totem cams
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Hey MP Totem cam users, |
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Totem cams have changed climbing for me. |
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Good to hear guys, thanks for the feed back! It sounds like I will be adding these to my rack in the next week or so. What are your experiences with the two lobe loading? |
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similar experiences here, I have the smallest 3 (blue,yellow, purple). They hold in flares/pin scars really well. not sure what it is exactly, but they are super confidence inspiring. My go to small piece for free climbing or aid for sure. The only downside is the relative bulk, they are roughly the same weight as comparably sized cams, but they are a bit bulkier. |
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I've used a set on two recent El Cap routes and loved them. |
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I've been using them for a year or two now and agree---the best thing there is in the sizes they come in. The narrow head means they go places other cams don't. I find the theoretically superior holding power comforting, although I can't claim to have done anything that would be a realistic test. They seem to walk less than other cams. |
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I don't think that durability will be an issue. I was trad climbing on these from before they were released to the public, and mine are in excellent condition. I haven't even needed to lube them yet. In addition, not one person has reported durability to be an issue yet. |
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how about falls ... |
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I agree with all the comments here. They are the best cams on the market. I've been using mine for over a year. |
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Has anybody heard if they're coming out with smaller sizes anytime soon? |
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Some VERY experienced climbers here giving a lot of praise to the Totem cams. I don't think I'll be in the market for new cams any time soon, but when I am I'll remember this thread. |
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While I haven't used them, I've read a fair amount of reviews, and the only complaint I've heard is that they are relatively large cams compared to cams from other brands that cover the same range. |
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Totems had over a decade in development and testing. For quite some time the inventors struggled to bring it to the market. But their passion and belief in their own product drove them. And it seems that they are being quite successful. (Though with plenty more room to grow.) |
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After using them for a few months I came to the same conclusion as others on here; They're the best cams out there in their size range. I'm seriously contemplating selling off the other half of my rack and just doing doubles on Totems. I think above the Red the narrow head benefits are less needed. I would take a "Gold" size though but probably just one. I think the numerous small cables limit how small they can make them so I doubt you'll see a smaller size. You never know though... |
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Another vote for the Totem cams. |
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I am with Josh. I have 2 sets and use mine for everything, but their uniqueness shines when aid climbing. I have used mine on 25+ walls (15-20 El Cap routes). The newer set and the older set look almost identical, it is incredible. I thought for sure I was going to destroy these things. |
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It sounds like a lot of folks like these cams in flares. How would you say they generally compare to the holding power of offset cams (metolius or aliens) in pin scars? The same, better, or a matter of circumstance and personal preference? This is all great info. Thanks! |
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aaron hope wrote:It sounds like a lot of folks like these cams in flares. How would you say they generally compare to the holding power of offset cams (metolius or aliens) in pin scars? The same, better, or a matter of circumstance and personal preference? This is all great info. Thanks!Good question. I am wondering the same. Are they as good in lateral flares as they are in vertical flares? That is, can we skip offset cams with these babies on moderately beat out trade routes? Cheers from Osaka... john |
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aaron hope wrote:It sounds like a lot of folks like these cams in flares. How would you say they generally compare to the holding power of offset cams (metolius or aliens) in pin scars? The same, better, or a matter of circumstance and personal preference? This is all great info. Thanks!You are comparing apples with oranges here. Totem cams are on paper the best cams on the market in terms of "holding power" (ie the outward pressure on the rock crack) and flared crack performance.** Real world performance confirms this. Offset cams do not have improved "holding power" over regular cams. They do however have the ability to work in situations where the lobes of regular cams may not engage properly due to differential expansion. Totem cams have decent range so if the offset is not too great then they'll be superior. If you compare the offset range of Metolius mastercams it is barely greater than Totems. Offset Aliens have bigger range but significantly less holding power unless the rock is particularly course.
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Sorry, maybe 'holding power' was the wrong choice of words. I'm just curious about overall performance. For those experienced in using both offset cams and totems in pin scars, do you have a preference? Why? |
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Aaron, actually they are totally different. They use a cable driven system which actually changes were the "axis" is, meaning in true vertical flares, the totem design gets you much better holding power. |