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The Old Settler
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Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Totally Spurious 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

Totally Spurious 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don Serl and Erin McGann, 1987
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 19, 2009
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This route was originally mistaken for the west buttress of the south peak during bad weather. Climb the rib right of (across the gully) from Mars Western until it flattens off after a few pitches. Cross the gully leftwards and pick up the major basalt dyke trending up and left; climb this, crossing the line of Mars Western, to the crest of the West Buttress of the South Peak and follow that route to the summit of the south peak.


Approach via Daiphy Lake and climb the rightmost minor rib on the southwest face of the south peak. Descend the south ridge of the south peak as for the west buttress descent.


Light rack to 3"

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