Totally Flaked 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Mike Cronin |
| Submitted By: | Kai Segrud on Sep 27, 2008 |
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Kyle climbing
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Description Climb a detached pillar to get to a layback crack. This used to be rated 5.9 but has since been extended. The old 5.9 anchors do not exist anymore!
Protection About a dozen draws now.
Totally Flaked, 5.9+ A must do canyon classic!
| Totally Flaked, 5.9+ Headshop Wall. Mohican. Spear...
| The crux is coming up after a brief rest.
| Getting totally pumped, and there is more to go!
| Cruising the beginning of Totally Flaked, a very r...
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| Comments on Totally Flaked |
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By Glenn Foltz From: Spearfish, SD Jun 27, 2010
| Wow was I shocked when I had a heck of a time finishing this "5.9"... Glad to see that the route was extended from what it was in the old guide. |
By R.Walters Jun 28, 2010
| I pulled a head-sized block off near the top of this puppy a few weeks ago at an undercling. ?feels a tad harder than 10b now IMO. Quality extension otherwise. |
By Mikel Cronin Jul 1, 2010
| Reggie Does the spot where the block was need cleaning. I was also wondering if the anchors need moving. I have heard that they can be hard to clip. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks Mike |
By R.Walters Jul 2, 2010
| Hey Mike, I suppose it could use a bit of scrubbing as there was a some dirt behind it. I would have but didn't have a brush. Everything else looked solid. Anchors might be tough to clip for shorter folks. Maybe a few more chain links would make it easier rather than having to re-drill? Hope summer is treating you well. |
By Glenn Foltz From: Spearfish, SD Jul 3, 2010
| I wondered if that might not be a recent "improvement"! I wiped the roots off the wall where the block was... didn't have a brush so its not immaculate. I don't think that anything else will flake off for another eon or two. I am not all about making anything easier, but it might be nice to move the anchors to where the last bolt is... IMHO it would keep the route a consistent 9+ish instead of having a 10d finish to a 9+ route. |
By Brent Larsen From: Spearfish, SD Jun 9, 2011 rating: 5.9+
| I just climbed this route a few days ago. I believe the original developer has chopped the extension and replaced the anchors back in their original spot. I miss the extension, however, it could be said that having the anchors where they are now preserves the original character of the route. AWESOME ROUTE! Killer layback sequence! A rarity for the black hills. DO THIS ROUTE! |
By Mikel Cronin Jun 10, 2011
| Yes the anchors were dropped back to the original location. I felt the route lost cool factor for more diffculty. Back to 9+. Brent you should say a few words about it. |
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