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Panty Wall
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Totally Clips 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Carson, Steve Bullock '90
Page Views: 3,160
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 29, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Gaar Lausman sending on a balmy November day, 2007...

Description 

This route is a pretty fun route, but its otherwise cool nature is somewhat diminished by the flexing flakes that you use for holds, sometimes including the ones you are clipping from. The small and sustained nature of this climb gives it its grade, not the individual moves, which are probably only moderate 5.10.

Approach Panty Wall and walk to the far left, up a broad sloping gully to a very steep wall. At the left end of this wall is a flat face with a flake near the bottom. The crux, if I recall is about 1/2-way up the route.

Crimp and layback for 60 feet or so, passing 6 bolts to fixed rap anchors.


Protection 

6 bolts, chains



Photos of Totally Clips Slideshow Add Photo
finishing off Totally Clips at the end of a fine spring day @ red rocks
finishing off Totally Clips at the end of a fine s...
Josh on the lower section of 'Totally Clips' during his onsight. Not bad for a guy with less than a year of climbing under his belt!
Josh on the lower section of 'Totally Clips' durin...
Top section of Totally Clips <br />January, 2011
Top section of Totally Clips
January, 2011
Josh finishing up strong on 'Totally Clips'.11a Panty Wall, Red Rocks NV
Josh finishing up strong on 'Totally Clips'.11a Pa...
Long reach on <em>Totally Clips</em>.
Long reach on Totally Clips.
Fun little route
Fun little route
"Totally Clips". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Totally Clips".
Photo by Blitzo.
Jeremiah leading
Jeremiah leading
James Tortelli climbs Totally Clips
James Tortelli climbs Totally Clips
Comments on Totally Clips Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Feb 21, 2004

The other crux for this route is probably deciding where best to position your belayer. If the belayer is up high in the gully near where the route begins, it's quite possible for them to get pulled off the stance, and be left hanging in space.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 7, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

just plop the belayer on the nice ledge at the base.

good route, the crux may have been .11a, but i wouldnt argue hard .10- this one just requires endurance.

good route, lots of fun.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 30, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Probably my favorite route at the PW. Very fun moves (crimps, liebacks, etc.) that continue for the bottom 2/3 of the route. If you climb the grade, and end up going to the PW, this would be a must climb. =)

By Drederek
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Good steep climbing on adequate holds, another great route at RR. The crux was pretty low for me, perhaps something flexible went away.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Holds are good on a slightly overhanging wall. No flexi crimps or nothin! Sweet movement with some varied positions.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2014

This is a great route, I've done three times 2007, 2009 and 2014 and doesn't disappoint. Belay is flat and directly below the first bolt. Bolts are nicely placed together with maybe a bit of spice between 2 & 3. I have noted that the anchor is chains only (no hangers) and maybe even of smaller diameter link. I was comfortable enough from the stance to fiddle with getting a biner clipped but someone gripped or showing up with only lockers may not be so fortunate.