This route is a must do! Not a 100% sure on the rating, but it's steep with trad to start and has a sporty finish. Start directly below the first bolt in the corner. The names a little deceiving (*unless you don't bring gear*). Because the beginning protects fine with a little pro.
Furthest route to the left. Look up way high for the first bolt. It's about 25-30ft up there.
A couple cams or nuts and 3 bolts, plus 2xchain anchor.
(I used #0.75 and a #1 Camalot).
Spencer Sitton sending total x before we made our ...
|By Derek Bailey|
From: murray, ut
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This route was a lot of fun. From the base it looks like jug town, but once you get up on it, it's way steeper than it looks, and all those massive, perky jugs turn into droopy, saggy slopers. it surprised me how tough this one turned out to be.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 29, 2013
No longer a 2 bolt anchor and the one remaining is a POS loose with stacked washers. I don't have a drill, but if you do this excellent route needs new anchors desperately. John Doe has pretty crappy chain on it as well and could use an upgrade too.