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Africa Flake 
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Spring Break 
Total Recall 
UNR Crack 

Total Recall 

5.11b

   
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Type: Sport, 45 feet
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: Unknown
Submitted By: Rick D on Dec 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Start on Spring Break. Work up the easy finger crack to a ledge and make first clip. Now head left to next bolt. Good moderate moves lead to a horizontal crack/ledge for your hands. Long, crimpy moves to the top.


Location 

Dead smack in the middle of UNR Crack and Spring Break.


Protection 

4 bolts



Comments on Total Recall Add Comment
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By Brandon14
Mar 2, 2009

grade feels about right - crux is making the forth clip and climbing through it

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Nov 5, 2011

You may want a piece before mantling up to the first ledge since the first clip is above that. Something from fingers to ~1" will do.

If you aren't up to the lead, the anchor can be gained by an airy scramble from the left.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 18, 2012

Whoo! Led this again yesterday. Every clean ascent involves down climbing for me, that crux at bolt three demands further thought every time. The cruxes on this one are at turns tricky, sequential, and burly, and it's like three or more cruxes in a row! I wonder if consensus would find this one somewhere in the 5.11+ range or not?

It was kind of exciting to go for no pro on the start and the bolting is perfect for just enough not to feel dangerous, yet far enough not apart to rule out a little excitement. One of the upper bolts was spinning a bit, I forgot to tighten it on the way down.

edit: Glen Uramian is the FA.

The story related on supertopo by user "Silver" is that Glen called it Total Recall because you had to totally recall every move to do the climb. Sounds about right!