|By Bad Sock Puppet|
May 12, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Surprisingly cool route!! It's definitely a solid 5.11 but not a stout .11d by any means:
- High 1st bolt but easy climbing (easy 5.10 climbing)
- 1st to 2nd bolt: deep slot pockets that are bomber
- 2nd to 3rd bolt: first crux (.11c/d) section with a sick sequence!
- 3rd to 4th bolt: delicate climbing that eases up as you mantle the shelf
- 4th to 5th bolt: excellent holds that lead to a nice left-facing, crescent-shaped sidepull
- 5th bolt: Pumped? No worries, down climb to shelf to shake out!
- 5th to 6th bolt: second crux (.11d), "blank" section, positive crimps, throw right to sloping "rail-type" hold just below the 6th bolt and match
- 6th bolt to chains: clip 6th bolt quickly, high feet, throw for second shelf, mantle, clip chains.
Felt just a tad softer than Division 5.11d but only because it has a shelf to rest on. Clean route & now all chalked up for y'all!