This is a great sport climb. Gain the arete (way hard!) and climb straight up making the crux on tenuous, reachy moves on perfectly small crimps to a thank God jug. Then stem acrobatically to the chimney feature, and finally a run up the slab to the anchors. This was impressively bolted on the lead.
This is to the left of P.O. Crack.
Quickdraws, 4 or 5 bolts
|By brent moore|
Sep 7, 2007
FA. Doug Berry, ground up, hand drilling. The lower part of the climb feel down. It is now easier to climb up, clip 2nd bolt then go down/over to corner on right and up, staying at 11+. The moves going from second bolt over right to arete will increase grade.
|By Tristan Perry|
Sep 16, 2007
Thanks for the correction, Brent. I've changed the FA info above.
|By Tim Kuss|
From: Durango, CO
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Oh, bolted on lead. I can see now, why the bolts not at the clipping stances. Kinda sucks. Like a lot of routes at Ophir, this one needs a rebuild. Get with the modern world, man!