Total Recall 5.13c
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In the midst of a lot of hard moves
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Description Hard and reachy with few or no intermediates. I've heard it's quality though.
Location First route on the right of the White Wall.
Protection Lots of bolts to chains.
Thin and sequential moves. Crux is looming.
| Nice route
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By Aimee Rose From: Bend, or Nov 14, 2007
| After a key undercling broke, most people say solid 13c. |
By Trish Houghtaling From: Flagstaff, Az Sep 22, 2008 rating: 5.13b
| Amazing route with a variety of ways to do the upper move where the hold broke- a brilliant endurance route! I would say a solid 13b. |
By Chris Tatum From: Flagstaff, AZ Apr 25, 2009
| All bolts replaced 4-24-09 except one anchor bolt because a lack of tools. Will be revisited. |
By KyleEdmondson Jun 17, 2009
| Consensus on the grade is 13b. However, if you avoid the drilled pocket between the 8th and 9th bolts and climb straight up the thin seam, it does go. I believe it is 14a, but would like to hear feedback if someone else tries it this way. However, just because it has been done without the drilled hold, please do not fill it in, as the route is much more fun with the pocket. |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jun 17, 2009 rating: 5.13b
| Generally speaking, I think its extremely unlikely that eliminating a single hold would change the grade by 3 letters. |
By KyleEdmondson Jun 18, 2009
| I think it does. The route is an endurance 13b with no move harder than v4. Removing the hold adds a v9 to the top, with no good rest. |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jun 18, 2009 rating: 5.13b
| Well, you've done it, I haven't so I'm talkin outta my a$$. How does it compare to the other 5.14s you've done? |
By KyleEdmondson Jun 18, 2009
| I've only done two others, and it is between the two in my opinion, and based on the time I spent on it. However, I know my ability to rate at this grade is shaky at best, so I would like to hear what other people who have tried it think. Consider the grade simply a first proposal. |
By hamlincheese Aug 19, 2010
| The thing is, you don't have to climb straight up the thin seam to make this go natural. The pocket was drilled just behind a 4 finger 3/4 pad side pull crimp. When you grab the pocket you don't even realize the hold is there because it becomes the lip of the pocket. On further inspection you can see that the pocket is recessed behind this edge. The boulder problem is probably only v5ish if you use the crimp and the route grade is 13cish. I just don't know why it was drilled in the first place. |
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