Crimpy sideways holds with funky footwork. A bueno little package of climbing. Like a bolted Little Cottonwood boulder problem. Andale!
Total Ramon is to the left of Scratchin' for the Loomer, which both rise from the slope around the corner and uphill from the flat spot below Fortress..
Bring a few draws for the bolts. Getting to the first bolt can be spicy, it can be stick-clipped (but it won't be as proud as going ground up in lycra tights).
There are bolted chain anchors on the ledge above. Read Drew's comments below regarding extra pieces above the last bolt to reduce the potential monster ripper if you blow it on the 5.9 finish.
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Sep 6, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Fun, fun line. Short with a powerful sequence that seems to relent above the second bolt. But save some petrol for the easier finish as I vaguely remember some deck potential reaching the anchors...
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Sep 12, 2007
I guess if you want to be picky about it, this route is really X rated. It's moderate at the top, but you're definitely still climbing, and you'd be cratering by the time you're getting close to the anchors. Not that that should keep a an .11 leader from doing it, all the hard stuff is well protected. Stick clip on the first bolt though unless you're solid. Burly crux moves, be sure to bring your body tension and edging shoes!
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008
I certainly never called this a sport route. I would have said 5.11 R. There are cams to be had above the bolts. It's only X (1) if you fall on 5.9, and (2) you have chosen not to carry or place gear.
Apr 10, 2012
If your not comfortable with big 5'9 run outs then bring a few pieces. If you do mange to fall near the chains you will almost certainly deck out pretty hard. Other then that this climb was super fun and will get your heart beating if you decided to run it out to the top.
|By Mark Lewis|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a X
A fun, challenging climb! It helped to think about and approach the climb as a boulder problem rather than a route. As has been stated, many of the moves and the feel of those moves is reminiscent of LCC bouldering.
I found there were a couple cruxes for me - a minor crux getting to the first bolt which involved some interesting hand/foot work which felt a bit like a wandering boulder route with a bunch of necessary moves which don't get you very far up the rock. The primary crux was after the 1st bolt going for some patina edges on either the left or right side of the climb (I've seen it climbed both ways).
This climb has some great flowing moves which is sublime if you can climb without any interruptions and immerse yourself in the movement! Delicate feet!
I really had fun on this one, but wouldn't consider leading it due to the dangerous fall potential (I know, I'm a wussy, no way around it). It is fairly easy to climb Grommet on the left and from the top traverse 6 feet on a ledge to the anchors for Total Ramon to set a TR.
2-bolts to a chain anchor. Bolts are in good shape, anchor is getting pretty rusty and there is a deep groove in the rock under the right chain where it has slowly ground it's way into the rock. Despite this the anchor feels solid.
From: Small Lake, UT
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13
For those concerned about falling before the 1st bolt on this, I wouldn't worry. The SLCA belay platform works wonder if you, ahem, get distracted and decide to pitch off. Aim for your rope bag for maximum cushioning.