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 ADVANCED
j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
48 T 
49 T 
Airy Aria T 
Blistered Toe T 
Bold-Ville T 
Broken Hammer T 
Carbs and Caffeine T 
Double Crack T 
Fall, The T,TR 
Fillipina T 
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 
High Jinx T 
Ivan and the Saum T 
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 
Lisa T 
Lito and the Swan T 
Los Tres Cabrones T 
Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Winter, The T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

Torture Garden 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Howie Davis, Pat Crowther, 1968
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on May 5, 2010

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Description 

1. Climb Blistered Toe until you are about 25 feet up, then traverse straight right 40 feet or so and belay. You should be immediately above a small tree. 5.5

2. Climb straight up the face (crux 1), following thin cracks. Eventually you will reach an old pin; at that point diagonal right to a small ledge. You will be looking a white face with a thin seam. Climb this face (crux 2) then go straight up to a large ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.

3. Move to the left side of an overhang, then go to the next overhang. From the top of a block, move past the roof, then trend up and right to a large pine. 5.8, 70 feet.

HBs (RPs might work) for the seam at the second crux. There were no other protection possibilities that I saw and if the nut pulled, the fall would be bad. Not too hard for 5.8

The line is indistinct, but the second pitch has some pretty darn nice face climbing. The third pitch is unmemorable, and there is a large rap tree on the left end of the big ledge that marks the end of the second pitch. From that tree you can reach the bolts on Blistered Toe with one rope.

Location 

Follow the trail up from the right side of the Boxcar Boulder. Go right around the boulder pile and you will see the crack of Blistered Toe; it starts about 20-25 feet up. Either start on some creaky flakes about 15 left of the crack or do the direct start (5.9+) up the short, right-facing corner.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack, and small (#2 or #3) HB nuts.


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