|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Howie Davis, Pat Crowther, 1968|
|Submitted By:||Dana Bartlett on May 5, 2010|
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|Comments on Torture Garden||Add Comment|
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By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Aug 21, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
If you're trying to get on the 3-star linkup in the book that uses P2 of Torture Garden I have some beta that I think is correct.
Climb up Blistered Toe until it's somewhat obvious to traverse right across a face at 5.6 or so. After about 40ft of traversing right and slightly upward you'll see two pins pretty close to each other. There's a big ledge just right of that. Belay here. Took just over 100ft of rope to the belay.
P2 of Torture Garden goes up a very thin crack just left of the ledge. It was possible to protect with a small WC offset nut. The piece was very good, albeit small. Once you're on top that block head pretty much straight up with a bit of traversing to keep it as easy as possible. Lots of lichen on this part of the climb - it doesn't get done much I guess. The book called it 5.5 I think? Felt a bit harder than that to me. Perhaps I couldn't find some holds. You don't really want to fall here either as the gear isn't plentiful.
The crux move was pretty fun, but that might be the only highlight of the pitch. It's a bit of an adventure. Certainly not worth of the 3-star rating in my opinion given the current (dirty) condition.