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 ADVANCED
Torture Chamber

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack in Groove T,TR 
Cracky Face TR 
Dos Gorditos T,TR 
Final Finger TR 
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 
Left of Roof -- Three Variations 
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 
Roofus, The T,S,TR 
S-Crack TR 
Sagas 50 T,TR 
Some boulder problem with a crack 
Straight Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 
Torture Chamber Traverse 
Tree Roof TR 
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 
West Crack TR 
West Flake TR 
WTF T 

Torture Chamber  


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Location: 40.52917, -105.13977 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,596
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Epke on May 24, 2003
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Swanson on possible historic first ascent.

Description 

The Torture Chamber area has both bouldering and short top ropes. There are some well known classics, but to be fun, you can climb up all over the ridge to set a top rope. It is primarily bouldering at the top of the ridge, then as working down the ridge towards S-Crack and Nemesis Tower, it is more TR due to height (25-30 feet). Classics include the Torture Chamber traverse, Borgman's Bulge, and S-Crack (TR).

Per John Marsella, the L->R is:

Final Finger, 10-, 1p, 30', TR.
Cracky Face, 9+, 1p, 30', TR.
Crack in Groove. 8-, 1p, 30', TR.
S-Crack, 10, 1p, 30', TR.
Gracie’s Dihedral, 9, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
Unnamed 5.9, 9, 1p, 30', TR.
Nemesis Northeast Face, 11-, 1p, 30', TR.
West Flake, 9, 1p, 30', TR.
West Crack, V-easy, 1p, 30, TR or boulder.

WTF, 8, 1p, 40', TR.
Sagas 50, 7, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
The Roofus, 9, 1p, 40', TR.
Dos Gorditos, 10, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

Left of Roof, V0, 15'.
Tree Roof, V0, 20', boulder or TR.
Torture Chamber Traverse, V2-.
Some Boulder Problem…, V-easy R, 25'.

Getting There 

From the intersection of Harmony and Taft Hill in SW Fort Collins, drive 1.8 miles west on Harmony to a dirt pull-off on the right before you come to the dam. The ridge that is in front of you and running back downhill and east is the Torture Chamber area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Torture Chamber:
Some boulder problem with a crack   V-easy 3 R     Boulder, 25'   
Tree Roof   V0 4     TR, Boulder, 20'   
Left of Roof -- Three Variations   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   
Torture Chamber Traverse   V1 5     Boulder   
Sagas 50   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Crack in Groove   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
West Flake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
S-Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Dos Gorditos   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Final Finger   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Nemesis Northeast Face   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Torture Chamber

Featured Route For Torture Chamber
Swanson on the Torture Chamber traverse.

Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5  CO : Fort Collins : ... : Torture Chamber
Begin the problem down the ridge at the end of the first band of rocks, this is the Torture Chamber. The problem is a continuous, juggy traverse up the ridge to the right keeping the feet as high as possible, a long traverse without a doubt. Variations exist, probably all with a FA by Gill too, using smaller holds for the hands and keeping the feet higher. All the variations make the problem more difficult. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Torture Chamber Add Comment
Show which comments
By Thomas Jensen
Jun 8, 2003
While any one move on the TT Traverse may be V1, I would be surprised if the concensus grade of the entire traverse would be. I'm no Chris Sharma, but have done some pretty hard problems and climbs and this traverse is PUMPY! In the old Horan Front Range Bouldering guide it gets B1. Its gotta be 50 moves or so. What do ya think folks. (I'm opening myself up for some serious slander here huh?)
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Jun 15, 2003
The problem is definitely pumpy, but it also has good hand holds throughout so I was reluctant to give it the V1 rating and was thinking more like V0-, but then before posting the climb I looked in Colorado Bouldering and saw the V1 grade so went with it. The climb is a great work out where you will definitely be feeling the pump by the end.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jul 25, 2003
Pumpy traverse with a few sharp edges. Not too bad, though. Good high ball problems that are fun to do. I was here in late afternoon and felt the burn of the rock. Good for the hands!
By Thomas Jensen
Aug 20, 2003
Has any one else noticed that holds are "falling" off of some of the problems at the Torture Chamber? On the roof by the tree, Borglum's Bulge and the TT traverse key holds are no longer there. All of this has occurred since June or so of 2003. I suspect some self righteous asshole who believes they have a certain special right to the rock at horsetooth is to blame and they are taking it out on easier problems. This same thing was happening at the Tropics shortly before it was closed. Whoever you are STOP! You are not doing any one any good. Leave the frigging rock as it is!
By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
May 5, 2014
If I've messed up the order here, please let me know via PM and we'll get it fixed ASAP.