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Tortuga 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Visser and Perkins
Season: not summer
Page Views: 1,136
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Description 

The attraction in this route is all in the first 15 feet of climbing. The route starts in beautiful overhanging huecoes to a powerful crux just after the first bolt. The crux involves a tricky sidepull throw to the left - a big span. Then up to a jug and the second clip.

After you clip the second bolt, the angle eases off and the route gets a bit sandy and unremarkable. But this route is worth doing just for the great climbing up to the second bolt.

Location 

On the left side of the crag, just around the corner from the steep wall that holds Director of Humor Affairs. Look for a route that starts up on big chalked huecos - fairly obvious

Protection 

4 bolts to anchors


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By Taylor Apple
Oct 14, 2013

By Leif E
Jan 4, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Unlike the video, I did the crux by doing a gaston bump on the block to get into the side pull, it felt like it made it a slightly easier and less dynamic move... in total I thoroughly enjoyed the route, the bottom is just pumpy enough to make the rest of the route a race to the chains
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Mar 3, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I also deviated from what's in the video. I placed a left hand in the small pocket where he has a right, then slotted the fingers of my right hand into the crack immediately above the pocket, then made the lunge to the jug at the 2nd bolt. Lief's idea is nice but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, who knows) I didn't notice the block when I managed to onsight this (my first .12a onsight!) :)