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Tornado Alley

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flying Cows 
Fujimata 
Goodbye Doublewide 
Gustnado 
It Sounded Like a Train 
Never Saw it Coming 
Revenge of the Little Fingers 
Rolling Thunder 
Spidergrind 
Swept Away 
Terror in the Trailerpark 
Texas Twister 
Unknown 
Unknown aka Left of Black Streak 

Tornado Alley 


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Lat, Long: 32.2363, -104.7574 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
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Center sector of Tornado Alley
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tornado Alley is an excellent crag with a large variety of difficulties and styles. The wall offers a number of great lines in the 12+ and above range on steep swells, as well as a few technical slabs, and even one of the canyon's few crack routes.

The wall faces East, so receives morning sun and evening shade. The crag is in the relatively secluded upper half of the canyon, so this can be a good place to go to avoid crowds.

From Disturbing the Peace's comment below:

Routes from Climbers left to right.

(01) Vortex (5.12c?) - Starts left of the overhanging arete
(02) Texas Twister (5.12a) - Climbs the overhanging right leaning arete
(03) Revenge of the Little Fingers (5.10b) - The warmup
(04) Terror in the Trailerpark (5.10d) - Harder than it looks
(05) Gustnado (5.11a) - The best of the easy climbs
(06) Spidergrind (5.12a) - Hard and thin pronounced crux
(07) Unknown (5.12a)
(08) Flying Cows (5.12b)
(09) Fujimata (5.12a) - Another good warmup for the harder lines, feel good grade.
(10) Unknown (5.12c) - The first really steep line, fun endurance climbing. -This route is the one missing from the photo topos and throws the numbers off past this.-
(11) Rolling Thunder (5.13a) - Moderate climbing except for the crux...
(12) Never Saw It Coming (5.12d) - More fun endurance oriented climbing
(13) Goodbye Double Wide (5.13a) - Might have some loose blocks??
(14) Swept Away (5.12a) - The crag classic!
(15) It Sounded Like a Train (5.10c) - Another potential warmup


Getting There 

If you are in the canyon, head up canyon past the Solstice Cave, then over undulating terrain as the canyon bends to the south. After several hundred yards the cliff will appear on the right (west) wall of the canyon. Some easy bushwhacking may be required to reach the cliff base.

From the parking lot, head down the main approach trail in a NNW-erly direction. After 5 minutes, the Violence Wall approach spur splits off to the right. COntinue another few minutes, and another spur trail branches off to the left (west). Follow this spur towards the sunporch. Near the canyon bottom, several short, easy downclimbs are required. Once in the canyon bottom, cross the canyon and follow your nose to the wall.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',7],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tornado Alley:
Revenge of the Little Fingers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport   
Terror in the Trailerpark   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 50'   
Gustnado   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 55'   
Fujimata   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Flying Cows   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 75'   
Swept Away   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 55'   
Rolling Thunder   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Tornado Alley

Featured Route For Tornado Alley
Swept Away; fun climb

Swept Away 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : ... : Tornado Alley
This is a four star endurance fest, while there are really no hard moves, the pump builds for the wild finish.Start up easy steep ground to even steeper ground. Rest whenever possible (when you're not pulling a roof) and stay psyched for the crux finish, for me it was a wild dyno for what I hoped was a good hold next to the anchors. While the individual move was probably no harder than V1, you're incredibly pumped at this point....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Tornado Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Right end of Tornado Alley
Right end of Tornado Alley
Left side of Tornado Alley
Left side of Tornado Alley
Overview of Tornado Alley.  Perspective is from near the Sunporch.
Overview of Tornado Alley. Perspective is from ne...
The Alley is Flooded.  Heavy rains turn the Swept Away landing into a lake.  Usually takes a few months of dry to get it back to a climbable state.
The Alley is Flooded. Heavy rains turn the Swept ...
Comments on Tornado Alley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 4, 2008

Access note:

Any significant precipitation will cause all the routes between Flying Cows and Swept Away to be flooded (at least the landing). Mud usually persists for awhile, and Swept Away is always the last route on the wall to dry out. At least it does it before Santa Fe.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 23, 2010

Routes from Climbers left to right.

01 Vortex (5.12c?) - Starts left of the overhanging arete
02 Texas Twister (5.12a) - Climbs the overhanging right leaning arete
03 Revenge of the Little Fingers (5.10b) - The warmup
04 Terror in the Trailerpark (5.10d) - Harder than it looks
05 Gustnado (5.11a) - The best of the easy climbs
06 Spidergrind (5.12a) - Hard and Thin, perhaps something broke?
07 Unknown (5.12a)
08 Flying Cows (5.12b)
09 Fujimata (5.12a) - Another good warmup for the harder lines, feel good grade.
10 Unknown (5.12c) - The first really steep line, fun endurance climbing.
11 Rolling Thunder (5.13a) - Moderate climbing except for the crux...
12 Never Saw It Coming (5.12d) - More fun endurance oriented climbing
13 Goodbye Double Wide (5.13a) - Might have some loose blocks??
14 Swept Away (5.12a) - The crag classic!
15 It Sounded Like a Train (5.10c) - Another potential warmup

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Apr 16, 2010

Vortex was rated 5.12d by the Kevin Wilkinson after his first ascent. I do not think is has gotten another ascent, thus this is only a single persons assessment. Historically speaking, Fred Nicole, friend to Jon came out for a tour and to crush it. Rumor has it that when frustrated by the awkward moves and the abundance of higher quality routes nearby, Fred lowered off the 3rd bolt of this route.