Torch & Twang  5.12a PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Mark Van Horn Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

T&T climbs the central crack system, over the roof...

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Description 

Within the context of limestone sport climbing, most will view this as a route to avoid. However, from a different perspective the line warrants a second look. If this pitch were on a desert tower, where sketchy detached blocks are part of the experience, the route would be a highly regarded classic. Unique, athletic movement in a wild position, puts this route among Shelf's most memorable. Unfortunately the spooky rock might leave a memory you'd rather forget.

Stick clip the first bolt, choose your path wisely, and tiptoe up the exfoliating slab. Good pockets and a bomber fingerlock pull over the first bulge onto an excellent panel of clean stone. Continue up sinker pockets to the looming roof. Make sure your belayer is clear of the rock fall zone, then lieback, handjam, and stem over the lip to a well deserved rest. An obvious 2-finger pocket and hard to reach edges breach the intimidating final panel.

Location 

Just left of the "Refrigerator", Climbing the opposite side of the Triage "Slice of Bread".

Protection 

Stick clip mandatory. 7 bolts to 2 BA.