climbing upto the belay cave of pitch 2
a major tourist centre and at either end of the bay are clusters of fantastic sea- cliffs that provide some very varied limestone and climbing styles. The rock ranges from the arge slabby sections of Long Quarry Point to the intimidating stacked overhangs of the Old
Redoubt at Berry Head. Between thèse are the hard sport crags of Anstey's Cove and the sunny more traditional venues dotted along the seashore at Daddyhole.
From the M5 at Exeter, take the A38/A380 directly to Torquay/Torbay. The cliffs of Berry Head are close to the town of Brixham, at the southern point of Torbay, whilst the other cliffs of Daddyhole and Anstey's Cove are at the northern point of Torbay on the outskirts of Torquay. Berry Head - follow signs for Brixham and on approaching Brixham pick up signs for Berry Head and follow them to a car park (fee). From hère the approaches to each cliff are described in the Berry Head section.
addyhole and Anstey's Cove - the best way to lócate the parking on a first visit is to follow signs for Torquay Harbour, then follow signs for Daddyhole around its Marina, past the Living Coasts bird-sanctuary and up a hill. A number of signed turnings eventually lead to the Daddyhole Plain car park (free). For Anstey's Cove, also head for the harbour and pick up signs for Babbacombe. Follow the road up a hill away from the harbour for around 1.25 miles to the huge Palace Hotel on the right. About 150m past the Palace Hotel turn left into Perinville Road and park.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
1 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Torbay
Dreadnought 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Berry head
1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of I its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an oíd peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay. 2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climbit to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, le...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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