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Brass Wall
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Topless Twins 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: R. Grandstaff, W. Broussard, '80
Page Views: 7,440
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (141)
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Late day climbing on Topless Twins. November 2012.

Description 

This a set of twin cracks, but as irony would have it, they top out all too soon. The climb is up a pleasant crack system which is worthy of attention and merit, but runs for only a single pitch. A shame, as were this a longer system it would be a classic Red Rocks climb.

To locate this route, approach the left side of the Brass Wall. As you do, keep out an eye for a set of twin splitters, starting as a single crack perhaps 10' off of the ground and then splitting and slowly separating along their length. This route has a little of everything, including a nice solid crux to keep it interesting.

From the fixed anchor up top, Rap 70' to the ground on a single rope.

Protection 

A standard rack of stoppers and cams.


Photos of Topless Twins Slideshow Add Photo
Mike leads Topless Twins with the backdrop of Mescalito in Pine Creek Canyon behind.
Mike leads Topless Twins with the backdrop of Mesc...
Patty gettin' one more piece of pro on a chilly, end of December 2007.
Patty gettin' one more piece of pro on a chilly, e...
John Lloyd low on Topless Twins.
John Lloyd low on Topless Twins.
Michelle Moffat fully dressed on Topless Twins. Photo 2004.
Michelle Moffat fully dressed on Topless Twins. Ph...
Having mucho fun on topless twins
Having mucho fun on topless twins
brass wall
BETA PHOTO: brass wall
John laying back the upper part of Topless Twins
John laying back the upper part of Topless Twins
The super nice "Topless Twins"
The super nice "Topless Twins"
Bill nicely utilizing the twin cracks of the route. November 2008.
Bill nicely utilizing the twin cracks of the route...
Susan on Topless Twins
Susan on Topless Twins
Floyd on Topless Twins
Floyd on Topless Twins

Comments on Topless Twins Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 19, 2013
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 10, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think this is one of the single best pitches in the area. A little bit of everything...
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Apr 3, 2006

This is one of the most enjoyable pitches I've done at RR. You wish it would keep going and going...
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route with good pro. Very nice!
By PDF
Feb 21, 2009

FUN STUFF
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 21, 2010

Lovely route. Has a distinct 'basalt' feel to it. But this would be rated 5.8- (or maybe even 5.7+) at Paradise Forks!
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Always looks like it's about to become 5.9 but it never really does. Fun, with solid holds all the way up.
By xxxxxxx
Mar 19, 2010

As my buddy rapped off of this route the left bolt that forms the two bolt anchor at the top pulled out a good deal exposing the back of the hanger and the sheath surrounding the bolt. If you want you can lead the pitch clip the right bolt as a directional and set a trad anchor on the large ledge to the left, bring up your second and rap off a chockstone located down a gully from the ledge.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Grant- We inspected this anchor once we found out about this- and I'm having trouble believing the bolt actually moved at all- the bolt is SOLID and NOT MOVING at all- it looks like the bolt hole was drilled at a slightly incorrect angle, leaving a small part of the sleeve exposed, but the bolt itself is FINE and PERFECTLY SAFE for use.

If future parties find that this bolt is moving or otherwise insecure, please let me know and I'll go back out and re-inspect, but in my opinion, the bolt is perfectly safe for use in an anchor. Both myself and my partner have extensive bolting experience and neither of us believe that the bolt is compromised in any way.
By xxxxxxx
Mar 25, 2010

Well as my partner rapped off the ring fulcrumed the hanger outward releasing a good deal of fine sand particles. I watched this happen as I was clipped into the anchor at eye level. I will say that I rapped without a problem, but, since when is an exposed sleeve nothing to worry about?
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Are you sure that wasn't the hanger grinding on the rock? Those types of hangers are prone to that sort of movement.

The exposed sleeve isn't ideal, but in red rock, on a wall that is more sun exposed than any other in the park, the bolt isn't likely to see any significant corrosion in the near future- which is the only real danger here- that bolt is unmoving and completely solid in the wall- I wouldn't have left it otherwise. Under normal circumstances, I would have still replaced the bolt, but currently, it is illegal to replace bolts in the wilderness as the environmental assesment that allowed for replacement has expired. The BLM has implied that a bolt that endangers lives may be replaced without repurcussion, but otherwise we need to wait for the EA to be reinstated. Both my partner and I feel that the condition the bolt is currently in is fine for use and poses no significant danger to the users of the climb.

Once the EA is reinstated, the LVCLC will put this bolt on it's replacement list.

Thanks for the heads up regardless- it's always good to hear about the conditons of bolts in the canyons.
By xxxxxxx
Mar 25, 2010

You know that's a good point the position of that ring might have ground out some sand from below the bolt as my partner swung around below me. Either way thanks for going out and checking on the anchor after hearing about the bolt, its good to know there are people out there willing to put in the effort to keep places like Red Rock safe.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yeah, those fixe rap bolts are prone to that sort of problem in sandstone- it's the main reason we install regular hangers with either rings or mussy hooks here.

No problem- I'm happy that folks are posting up when they have a concern about a bolt- it's a great way to let the locals know and ensure that we get out and replace bad hardware!!
By Canon
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You can really sew this thing up with nuts and small gear! I placed a gold #2 camalot, and all of the rest was under green #.75 camalot size.

Anchor was in great shape, no movement.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Dec 28, 2012

Try to stay in the left crack for a full value pitch.
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I used mainly nuts on this route and I think a .75 and #1 ?