Topless Twins 

I think this is one of the single best pitches in the area. A little bit of everything...

This is one of the most enjoyable pitches I've done at RR. You wish it would keep going and going...

Good route with good pro. Very nice!

FUN STUFF

Lovely route. Has a distinct 'basalt' feel to it. But this would be rated 5.8- (or maybe even 5.7+) at Paradise Forks!

Always looks like it's about to become 5.9 but it never really does. Fun, with solid holds all the way up.

As my buddy rapped off of this route the left bolt that forms the two bolt anchor at the top pulled out a good deal exposing the back of the hanger and the sheath surrounding the bolt. If you want you can lead the pitch clip the right bolt as a directional and set a trad anchor on the large ledge to the left, bring up your second and rap off a chockstone located down a gully from the ledge.

Grant- We inspected this anchor once we found out about this- and I'm having trouble believing the bolt actually moved at all- the bolt is SOLID and NOT MOVING at all- it looks like the bolt hole was drilled at a slightly incorrect angle, leaving a small part of the sleeve exposed, but the bolt itself is FINE and PERFECTLY SAFE for use.

If future parties find that this bolt is moving or otherwise insecure, please let me know and I'll go back out and re-inspect, but in my opinion, the bolt is perfectly safe for use in an anchor. Both myself and my partner have extensive bolting experience and neither of us believe that the bolt is compromised in any way.

Well as my partner rapped off the ring fulcrumed the hanger outward releasing a good deal of fine sand particles. I watched this happen as I was clipped into the anchor at eye level. I will say that I rapped without a problem, but, since when is an exposed sleeve nothing to worry about?

Are you sure that wasn't the hanger grinding on the rock? Those types of hangers are prone to that sort of movement.

The exposed sleeve isn't ideal, but in red rock, on a wall that is more sun exposed than any other in the park, the bolt isn't likely to see any significant corrosion in the near future- which is the only real danger here- that bolt is unmoving and completely solid in the wall- I wouldn't have left it otherwise. Under normal circumstances, I would have still replaced the bolt, but currently, it is illegal to replace bolts in the wilderness as the environmental assesment that allowed for replacement has expired. The BLM has implied that a bolt that endangers lives may be replaced without repurcussion, but otherwise we need to wait for the EA to be reinstated. Both my partner and I feel that the condition the bolt is currently in is fine for use and poses no significant danger to the users of the climb.

Once the EA is reinstated, the LVCLC will put this bolt on it's replacement list.

Thanks for the heads up regardless- it's always good to hear about the conditons of bolts in the canyons.

You know that's a good point the position of that ring might have ground out some sand from below the bolt as my partner swung around below me. Either way thanks for going out and checking on the anchor after hearing about the bolt, its good to know there are people out there willing to put in the effort to keep places like Red Rock safe.

Yeah, those fixe rap bolts are prone to that sort of problem in sandstone- it's the main reason we install regular hangers with either rings or mussy hooks here.

No problem- I'm happy that folks are posting up when they have a concern about a bolt- it's a great way to let the locals know and ensure that we get out and replace bad hardware!!

You can really sew this thing up with nuts and small gear! I placed a gold #2 camalot, and all of the rest was under green #.75 camalot size.

Anchor was in great shape, no movement.

Try to stay in the left crack for a full value pitch.

I used mainly nuts on this route and I think a .75 and #1 ?