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 ADVANCED
The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T,S 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Topless Etiquette 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1995
Page Views: 6,000
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (175)
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Kira, 11, 4'5", near the crux for kids. Photo by ...
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Description 

Fourth route from the right. This is probably the best route at the Riviera, at least in terms of sustained quality. Fun and reasonably long. Climbs overlaps and jugs up a slabby wall just right of a small overhanging section (Bosch Blanket Bingo).

Near the top, move left to the anchor atop Bosch Blanket Bingo, or continue straight up to a higher anchor (bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot to protect the move to the anchor if you do this finish).


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Bring a #0.75 or #1 Camalot (and a 60m rope) for the straight-up finish.



Photos of Topless Etiquette Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Dillon at the second bolt.
Peter Dillon at the second bolt.
Topless Etiquette (09-06-03).  Near the top, traverse left to the anchor atop Bosch Blanket Bingo, or continue straight up to a higher anchor.  Bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot to protect the move to the anchor for the straight-up finish.
BETA PHOTO: Topless Etiquette (09-06-03). Near the top, trave...
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
Comments on Topless Etiquette Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 15, 2001

This route is quite nice and continuous, not a very defined crux as there are harder sections for shorter/taller folks. A good route to practice footwork, especially for newbies to moderate slab routes. I had fun on this one and only wish it could be longer. Just as easy to use the anchors to the left instead of going through the blocky quartzite ridge.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 6, 2003

This is a nice little route. I counted six bolts today though; the last bolt is maybe two or three feet away from the next-to-last. Is that a new bolt? Definitely felt natural to just head over to the anchors to the left, rather than straight up through the blocky section.

By richard magill
Jul 16, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent 5.8 sport route - fun and continuous.

By Anonymous Coward
May 17, 2005

Gear Alert

WARNING: The 3rd Bolt from the bottom is loose and spinning!! Is there anyone out there who monitors these routes? I don't know how to replace the bolts, but I thought someone should know...

Loose bolt aside, this is a really fun moderate route. Good moves the whole way, with good protection. It's just as easy to use the lower set of anchors as it is to use the upper set. Watch out for the wet spot near the 3rd bolt.

-ajs

By Tom Hanson
Nov 8, 2005

Dear AC,

Regarding the "loose bolts" on Topless Etiquette:Is the actual bolt spinning or merely the hanger? Spinning hangers are common and all that is generally required is an easy turn of the wrench. Spinning hangers are usually not dangerous unless the bolt has come dangerously unthreaded. If the bolt itself is spinning, it should be replaced.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 24, 2005

Fun route that is fairly consistently good climbing. From the anchors, it is also possible to traverse left over the anchors for Devin's Dihedral enabling you to set up a top rope for that route. (As of today, the third hanger was spinning but the bolt looked good).

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
May 9, 2006

The bolts are fine. Weird but fun route.

By DamageVic
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Jul 15, 2009

Really enjoyed this route yesterday- All the bolts/hangers seemed fine to me. There's a surprisingly good crimper for the L hand just before the 4th(?) bolt. Fun!

By Kevin Gabelman
Feb 21, 2011

Fun w/ some high feet.