Topless Etiquette 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Peter Dillon at the second bolt.
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Description Fourth route from the right. This is probably the best route at the Riviera, at least in terms of sustained quality. Fun and reasonably long. Climbs overlaps and jugs up a slabby wall just right of a small overhanging section (Bosch Blanket Bingo).
Near the top, move left to the anchor atop Bosch Blanket Bingo, or continue straight up to a higher anchor (bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot to protect the move to the anchor if you do this finish).
Protection 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Bring a #0.75 or #1 Camalot (and a 60m rope) for the straight-up finish.
BETA PHOTO: Topless Etiquette (09-06-03). Near the top, trave...
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Kira, 11, 4'5", near the crux for kids. Photo by ...
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| Comments on Topless Etiquette |
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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 15, 2001
| This route is quite nice and continuous, not a very defined crux as there are harder sections for shorter/taller folks. A good route to practice footwork, especially for newbies to moderate slab routes. I had fun on this one and only wish it could be longer. Just as easy to use the anchors to the left instead of going through the blocky quartzite ridge. |
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 6, 2003
| This is a nice little route. I counted six bolts today though; the last bolt is maybe two or three feet away from the next-to-last. Is that a new bolt? Definitely felt natural to just head over to the anchors to the left, rather than straight up through the blocky section. |
By richard magill
Jul 16, 2004
rating: 5.8+
| Excellent 5.8 sport route - fun and continuous. |
By Anonymous Coward
May 17, 2005
Gear Alert
| WARNING: The 3rd Bolt from the bottom is loose and spinning!! Is there anyone out there who monitors these routes? I don't know how to replace the bolts, but I thought someone should know...
Loose bolt aside, this is a really fun moderate route. Good moves the whole way, with good protection. It's just as easy to use the lower set of anchors as it is to use the upper set. Watch out for the wet spot near the 3rd bolt.
-ajs |
By Tom Hanson
Nov 8, 2005
| Dear AC,
Regarding the "loose bolts" on Topless Etiquette:Is the actual bolt spinning or merely the hanger? Spinning hangers are common and all that is generally required is an easy turn of the wrench. Spinning hangers are usually not dangerous unless the bolt has come dangerously unthreaded. If the bolt itself is spinning, it should be replaced. |
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 24, 2005
| Fun route that is fairly consistently good climbing. From the anchors, it is also possible to traverse left over the anchors for Devin's Dihedral enabling you to set up a top rope for that route. (As of today, the third hanger was spinning but the bolt looked good). |
By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
May 9, 2006
| The bolts are fine. Weird but fun route. |
By DamageVic
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Jul 15, 2009
| Really enjoyed this route yesterday- All the bolts/hangers seemed fine to me. There's a surprisingly good crimper for the L hand just before the 4th(?) bolt. Fun! |
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