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Top Twenty Cracks in Joshua Tree...

Original Post
Shawn Adams · · Pasadena, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Starting at 5.0 and ending wherever, what is everyone's consensus of the top twenty cracks to climb in JTree?

Cheers,
S

Todd Gordon · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 10,796

I know what the top 5 are;...Course and Buggy, Clean and Jerk, O'Kellys, Rubicon, and Perpetual Motion......pick through this list and pull out the crack climbs;...that should pretty much do it...

joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsG…

Spider Savage · · Los Angeles, ID · Joined May 2007 · Points: 540

Mental Physics, Exorcist

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I think my top five would be O'Kelleys, Coarse and Buggy, Wangerbanger, Equinox and Illusion Dweller. Somewhat arbitrary, but all good.

Others: Hot Rocks, Touch and Go, Sail Away, Perfect Fingers, More Funky, Asteroid Crack, Imaginary Voyage, Dogleg. So many...

steve edwards · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2004 · Points: 645

Hard to argue with Todd but I've done those five and think Equinox is better, and one of the best cracks I've ever done. It's the only line on a formation and an absolute splitter. And I don't really like crack climbing. Hot Rocks is good, too, but it has a face crux if I remember correctly. And that 5.9 in some corner near Echo was also always a favorite.

steve edwards · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2004 · Points: 645

Touch and Go. That's it. Thanks Fat Dad.

Past User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,069

+1 million equinox

Pat C · · Honolulu · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 45

Nobody's got Rubicon up??? Illusion Dweller, Damper, The Orphan, Perpetual Motion, Clean and Jerk (pretty cracky), More funky than monkey for sure, Flakes of Wrath, Johnny Quest, Etude, Open Book, Double Cross, That really brutal one next to run for your life...... what's that one called, Fisticuffs! The exorcist, Tax man, Jumar of flesh, six pack crack also bird of fire, and the dolphin. and crack # 6 is good

Paul S. · · Orange County, CA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 10

These are ones that I have done so it will not have anything harder than .10d....also not in any specific order,

bird of fire, heart of darkness,double cross, touch and go, pope's crack, super roof, white lightening, sail away, hands off, the gem, deflowered (yes I like this one), invisibility lessons, continuum, high strung, ball bearing, o'kelly's crack, the exorcist, dandelion, taxman, semi tough, prepackaged.....ooops thats 21

Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 210

Todd's Big Five are excellent routes, just remember you have to do them all in one day. For less of an ordeal, remember the Little Five, Touch and Go, Pope's Crack, Hands Off, Sail Away, and Ball Bearing, also done in a day.

Unless there has been some serious tectonic plate movement recently, Flakes of Wrath, Johnny Quest, Etude, and Open Book are still at Suicide/Tahquitz.

RTM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 385

I don't know about Todd's top 5, but my 5 are: Equinox, Bird of Fire, Rubicon, Hot Rocks, Wangerbanger

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 275

i think vector should be on the list. great rock, fabulous climb, a delightful setting, and usually no chalk on route.

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 275

i dont see crack queen on the list either. that climb blows most of the others away...

Pat C · · Honolulu · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 45

you know, snake book out in loveland or oz or whatever is super fun, and I completely forgot Sphincter Quits! that one's one of my favorites for sure.

Michael Ybarra · · on the road · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 85

Fire or Retire and both Mel Cracks would make my list.

Brent Silvester · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 135

I'll say Big Bobs Big Wedge (although it a boulder problem, it still is quite long and it is a roof crack for gods sake). More Funky than Monkey. Another roof crack. We really don't have too many here in Southern Arizona.

+1 For Illusion Dweller and the Exorcist and Tax Man.

mtoensing · · AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 705

heart of darkness and also apocalypse now if you are into that sort of OW thing

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 275

kamikazi crack is pretty darn good too. better than many of the ones listed already.

Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388

Many of my favorites were already mentioned, but here are a couple I didn't see yet

Modern Warfare (offwidth)
Spiderline

Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,960

Toejam. It's all about Toejam.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

A few of easy 5.7s:

False Smooth as Silk (either 5.4 or 5.7)
Classic Corner
Bushcrack

Popular Mechanics (5.9) is really clean. You'd almost swear you're in the Valley.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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