Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Top Twenty Cracks in Joshua Tree...
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
May 19, 2010
Moi
Starting at 5.0 and ending wherever, what is everyone's consensus of the top twenty cracks to climb in JTree?

Cheers,
S
Shawn Adams
From Pasadena, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2009
10 points
May 19, 2010
I know what the top 5 are;...Course and Buggy, Clean and Jerk, O'Kellys, Rubicon, and Perpetual Motion......pick through this list and pull out the crack climbs;...that should pretty much do it...

joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGues...
toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Joined Nov 26, 2006
9,698 points
May 19, 2010
Spider in Taboose
Mental Physics, Exorcist Spider Savage
Joined May 18, 2007
552 points
May 19, 2010
I think my top five would be O'Kelleys, Coarse and Buggy, Wangerbanger, Equinox and Illusion Dweller. Somewhat arbitrary, but all good.

Others: Hot Rocks, Touch and Go, Sail Away, Perfect Fingers, More Funky, Asteroid Crack, Imaginary Voyage, Dogleg. So many...
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
May 19, 2010
Hard to argue with Todd but I've done those five and think Equinox is better, and one of the best cracks I've ever done. It's the only line on a formation and an absolute splitter. And I don't really like crack climbing. Hot Rocks is good, too, but it has a face crux if I remember correctly. And that 5.9 in some corner near Echo was also always a favorite. steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Joined May 3, 2004
551 points
May 19, 2010
Touch and Go. That's it. Thanks Fat Dad. steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Joined May 3, 2004
551 points
May 19, 2010
+1 million equinox bheller
From SL UT
Joined Nov 8, 2007
1,149 points
May 19, 2010
me
Nobody's got Rubicon up??? Illusion Dweller, Damper, The Orphan, Perpetual Motion, Clean and Jerk (pretty cracky), More funky than monkey for sure, Flakes of Wrath, Johnny Quest, Etude, Open Book, Double Cross, That really brutal one next to run for your life...... what's that one called, Fisticuffs! The exorcist, Tax man, Jumar of flesh, six pack crack also bird of fire, and the dolphin. and crack # 6 is good Pat C
From Honolulu
Joined Mar 14, 2009
94 points
May 20, 2010
"Other Voices" 5.7, Right side of Mel's ...
These are ones that I have done so it will not have anything harder than .10d....also not in any specific order,

bird of fire, heart of darkness,double cross, touch and go, pope's crack, super roof, white lightening, sail away, hands off, the gem, deflowered (yes I like this one), invisibility lessons, continuum, high strung, ball bearing, o'kelly's crack, the exorcist, dandelion, taxman, semi tough, prepackaged.....ooops thats 21

Paul S.
From Orange County, CA
Joined Jan 22, 2010
11 points
May 20, 2010
Todd's Big Five are excellent routes, just remember you have to do them all in one day. For less of an ordeal, remember the Little Five, Touch and Go, Pope's Crack, Hands Off, Sail Away, and Ball Bearing, also done in a day.

Unless there has been some serious tectonic plate movement recently, Flakes of Wrath, Johnny Quest, Etude, and Open Book are still at Suicide/Tahquitz.
Brandt Allen
From Joshua Tree, Cal
Joined Jan 12, 2004
234 points
May 20, 2010
I don't know about Todd's top 5, but my 5 are: Equinox, Bird of Fire, Rubicon, Hot Rocks, Wangerbanger RTM
Joined Oct 1, 2002
593 points
May 20, 2010
i think vector should be on the list. great rock, fabulous climb, a delightful setting, and usually no chalk on route. x15x15
Joined Mar 19, 2009
151 points
May 20, 2010
My favorite 20 that I can think of of the top of my head, in no particular order:

Rubicon
Perpetual Motion
Touch and Go
Scary Poodles
Coarse and Buggy
Sail Away
Pope's Crack
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market
Bird of Fire
Prepackaged
Mental Physics
Overseer
Anacram
Invisibility Lessons
Continuum
the Bendix Claws
Right V crack
Double Cross
The Rattler
Tax Man

I haven't done these, but I've looked at them and they look sick:
Wangerbanger
O'Kelleys
Vector
Equinox
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,898 points
May 20, 2010
i dont see crack queen on the list either. that climb blows most of the others away... x15x15
Joined Mar 19, 2009
151 points
May 20, 2010
me
you know, snake book out in loveland or oz or whatever is super fun, and I completely forgot Sphincter Quits! that one's one of my favorites for sure. Pat C
From Honolulu
Joined Mar 14, 2009
94 points
May 24, 2010
 Trad gumby tries to go sport on the Lion King, Ja...
Fire or Retire and both Mel Cracks would make my list. Michael Ybarra
From on the road
Joined Jan 23, 2008
134 points
May 24, 2010
a good hair cut goes a long way. Dress For Success...
I'll say Big Bobs Big Wedge (although it a boulder problem, it still is quite long and it is a roof crack for gods sake). More Funky than Monkey. Another roof crack. We really don't have too many here in Southern Arizona.

+1 For Illusion Dweller and the Exorcist and Tax Man.
Brent Silvester
Joined Jan 15, 2008
173 points
May 24, 2010
heart of darkness and also apocalypse now if you are into that sort of OW thing mtoensing
From Boulder
Joined Feb 25, 2006
826 points
May 25, 2010
kamikazi crack is pretty darn good too. better than many of the ones listed already. x15x15
Joined Mar 19, 2009
151 points
May 25, 2010
Matt Toensing wrote:
apocalypse now
12 feet of 5.8 OW one of the best cracks in Josh?
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,898 points
May 25, 2010
Skiing around.
Many of my favorites were already mentioned, but here are a couple I didn't see yet

Modern Warfare (offwidth)
Spiderline
Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 13, 2006
2,147 points
May 25, 2010
My kinda simian
Toejam. It's all about Toejam. Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
May 25, 2010
Ryan Kelly wrote:
Toejam. It's all about Toejam.

Have you redpointed that splitter rig yet?
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,898 points
May 25, 2010
A few of easy 5.7s:

False Smooth as Silk (either 5.4 or 5.7)
Classic Corner
Bushcrack

Popular Mechanics (5.9) is really clean. You'd almost swear you're in the Valley.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
May 25, 2010
My kinda simian
caughtinside wrote:
Have you redpointed that splitter rig yet?


I'm still projecting The Bong. ToeJam will have to wait till 2011.
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
May 25, 2010
My kinda simian
Fat Dad wrote:
A few of easy 5.7s: False Smooth as Silk (either 5.4 or 5.7) Classic Corner Bushcrack Popular Mechanics (5.9) is really clean. You'd almost swear you're in the Valley.


I don't know about False Smooth as Silk, but Smooth as Silk is great for 20 feet or so.

+1 on Popular Mechanics, and the one to the left of it - Ace of Spades?
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!