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Top Twenty Cracks in Joshua Tree...
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By Shawn Adams
From Pasadena, CA
May 19, 2010
Moi

Starting at 5.0 and ending wherever, what is everyone's consensus of the top twenty cracks to climb in JTree?

Cheers,
S


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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
May 19, 2010

I know what the top 5 are;...Course and Buggy, Clean and Jerk, O'Kellys, Rubicon, and Perpetual Motion......pick through this list and pull out the crack climbs;...that should pretty much do it...

www.joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/recroutes.htm


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By Spider Savage
May 19, 2010
Spider in Taboose

Mental Physics, Exorcist


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
May 19, 2010

I think my top five would be O'Kelleys, Coarse and Buggy, Wangerbanger, Equinox and Illusion Dweller. Somewhat arbitrary, but all good.

Others: Hot Rocks, Touch and Go, Sail Away, Perfect Fingers, More Funky, Asteroid Crack, Imaginary Voyage, Dogleg. So many...


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By steve edwards
From SLC, UT
May 19, 2010

Hard to argue with Todd but I've done those five and think Equinox is better, and one of the best cracks I've ever done. It's the only line on a formation and an absolute splitter. And I don't really like crack climbing. Hot Rocks is good, too, but it has a face crux if I remember correctly. And that 5.9 in some corner near Echo was also always a favorite.


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By steve edwards
From SLC, UT
May 19, 2010

Touch and Go. That's it. Thanks Fat Dad.


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By bheller
From SL UT
May 19, 2010

+1 million equinox


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By Pat C
From Honolulu
May 19, 2010
me

Nobody's got Rubicon up??? Illusion Dweller, Damper, The Orphan, Perpetual Motion, Clean and Jerk (pretty cracky), More funky than monkey for sure, Flakes of Wrath, Johnny Quest, Etude, Open Book, Double Cross, That really brutal one next to run for your life...... what's that one called, Fisticuffs! The exorcist, Tax man, Jumar of flesh, six pack crack also bird of fire, and the dolphin. and crack # 6 is good


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By Paul S.
From Orange County, CA
May 20, 2010
"Other Voices" 5.7, Right side of Mel's Diner, Joshua Tree N.P.

These are ones that I have done so it will not have anything harder than .10d....also not in any specific order,

bird of fire, heart of darkness,double cross, touch and go, pope's crack, super roof, white lightening, sail away, hands off, the gem, deflowered (yes I like this one), invisibility lessons, continuum, high strung, ball bearing, o'kelly's crack, the exorcist, dandelion, taxman, semi tough, prepackaged.....ooops thats 21


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By Brandt Allen
From Joshua Tree, Cal
May 20, 2010

Todd's Big Five are excellent routes, just remember you have to do them all in one day. For less of an ordeal, remember the Little Five, Touch and Go, Pope's Crack, Hands Off, Sail Away, and Ball Bearing, also done in a day.

Unless there has been some serious tectonic plate movement recently, Flakes of Wrath, Johnny Quest, Etude, and Open Book are still at Suicide/Tahquitz.


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By RTM
May 20, 2010

I don't know about Todd's top 5, but my 5 are: Equinox, Bird of Fire, Rubicon, Hot Rocks, Wangerbanger


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By x15x15
May 20, 2010

i think vector should be on the list. great rock, fabulous climb, a delightful setting, and usually no chalk on route.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
May 20, 2010

My favorite 20 that I can think of of the top of my head, in no particular order:

Rubicon
Perpetual Motion
Touch and Go
Scary Poodles
Coarse and Buggy
Sail Away
Pope's Crack
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market
Bird of Fire
Prepackaged
Mental Physics
Overseer
Anacram
Invisibility Lessons
Continuum
the Bendix Claws
Right V crack
Double Cross
The Rattler
Tax Man

I haven't done these, but I've looked at them and they look sick:
Wangerbanger
O'Kelleys
Vector
Equinox


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By x15x15
May 20, 2010

i dont see crack queen on the list either. that climb blows most of the others away...


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By Pat C
From Honolulu
May 20, 2010
me

you know, snake book out in loveland or oz or whatever is super fun, and I completely forgot Sphincter Quits! that one's one of my favorites for sure.


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By Michael Ybarra
From on the road
May 24, 2010
 Trad gumby tries to go sport on the Lion King, January, 2007

Fire or Retire and both Mel Cracks would make my list.


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By Brent Silvester
May 24, 2010
a good hair cut goes a long way. <br />Dress For Success!

I'll say Big Bobs Big Wedge (although it a boulder problem, it still is quite long and it is a roof crack for gods sake). More Funky than Monkey. Another roof crack. We really don't have too many here in Southern Arizona.

+1 For Illusion Dweller and the Exorcist and Tax Man.


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By mtoensing
From Boulder
May 24, 2010
Props to my home state show

heart of darkness and also apocalypse now if you are into that sort of OW thing


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By x15x15
May 25, 2010

kamikazi crack is pretty darn good too. better than many of the ones listed already.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
May 25, 2010

Matt Toensing wrote:
apocalypse now
12 feet of 5.8 OW one of the best cracks in Josh?


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By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
May 25, 2010
Skiing around.

Many of my favorites were already mentioned, but here are a couple I didn't see yet

Modern Warfare (offwidth)
Spiderline


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By Ryan Kelly
From work.
May 25, 2010
My kinda simian

Toejam. It's all about Toejam.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
May 25, 2010

Ryan Kelly wrote:
Toejam. It's all about Toejam.

Have you redpointed that splitter rig yet?


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
May 25, 2010

A few of easy 5.7s:

False Smooth as Silk (either 5.4 or 5.7)
Classic Corner
Bushcrack

Popular Mechanics (5.9) is really clean. You'd almost swear you're in the Valley.


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By Ryan Kelly
From work.
May 25, 2010
My kinda simian

caughtinside wrote:
Have you redpointed that splitter rig yet?


I'm still projecting The Bong. ToeJam will have to wait till 2011.


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By Ryan Kelly
From work.
May 25, 2010
My kinda simian

Fat Dad wrote:
A few of easy 5.7s: False Smooth as Silk (either 5.4 or 5.7) Classic Corner Bushcrack Popular Mechanics (5.9) is really clean. You'd almost swear you're in the Valley.


I don't know about False Smooth as Silk, but Smooth as Silk is great for 20 feet or so.

+1 on Popular Mechanics, and the one to the left of it - Ace of Spades?


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