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Top Three 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch climbs in America?
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By nelissam
Feb 21, 2013
Rostrum, moonlight buttress, astroman.

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By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Feb 21, 2013
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Fun thread! Along with a lot of the others, my top 3 are Positive Vibrations, Sunspot Dihedral, and the Rostrum.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Feb 21, 2013
El Chorro
I agree with camhead. By setting a 6 pitch limit you are eliminating desert towers, which host some of the best and most unique pitches in the US. Fine Jade and N. Face of Castleton are world class in every way. They can be combined in a day so they should at least count together.

I think you should ask for the best three Grade III routes, the three best three Grade IV and V and so on. Then you can include places like the Desert towers, the Needles, The Rockfellow Dome in Cochise, etc. Also, this discussion makes no sense if you can't include Canada.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 21, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Another Fab climb..... you can do it in a day.

No aid or FRENCH and its 11b

mountainproject.com/v/the-regu...

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By Lurker
Feb 21, 2013
Also a bit surprised that Silk Road on Calaveras Dome hasn't come up. I haven't done it either, but a few friends have said that it rivals anything in the Valley or the greater Sierra in quality. I have done Wall of the Worlds (.10c, so won't make the list) on Cal Dome, and that thing is phenomenal. Also known as "War of the Walls".

mountainproject.com/v/war-of-t...

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By Antoine Savelli
From Ophir, CO
Aug 23, 2013
20 kN wrote:
Sport or trad. At least six pitches, but doable in a day. No grade VI wall stuff. What are they? So far I am thinking Astroman for 5.11 and Moonlight Buttress for 5.12. What else?



Pale Fire on Moses

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By Tug
Aug 23, 2013
You're going to pick pale fire over primrose?

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By Tug
Aug 23, 2013
My top three that I've done would be Don Juan Wall in the needles, Inferred in Moab, and The Grand Wall 5.11 A0.

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By tenesmus
Aug 27, 2013
Wow. That's kinda awesome.

Luke Stefurak wrote:
I've mainly climbed on the West Coast so I'd say: Rainbow Wall The Rostrum Positive Vibrations I put togeather a bunch of beta for most of the long routes I've done in the 5.11 and 5.12 range: dreaminvertical.com/2013/02/ma... The blog post has more beta versus quality info but there are links to a ton of trip reports. I think that all of the routes in the post are awesome. Here is a list in "difficulty" order. •Free-rider – 5.13-, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Regular NW Face – 5.12, Half Dome – Yosemite, CA •Sheer Lunacy – 5.12+, Zion, UT •Astroman – 5.11+, Washington Column – Yosemite, CA •Original Route – 5.12-, Rainbow Wall Red Rock, NV •Chouinard-Herbert – 5.11+, Sentinel Rock- Yosemite, CA •Hotline – 5.12, Elephant Rock – Yosemite, CA •Tradewinds – 5.12-, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •Free Blast – 5.11, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Astro-Hulk – 5.11, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •North Face- 5.11+, Rostrum – Yosemite, CA •Cloud Tower – 5.12- Red Rock, NV •Positive Vibrations – 5.11-, Incredible Hulk- High Sierra, CA •Levitation 29 – 5.11+ Red Rock, NV My favorite from last year was The Flying Buttress out on Merriam Peak. Four high quality pitches of 5.11 in the backcountry.

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Sep 1, 2013
Fine jade is my all time favorite climb

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By Ed Wright
Sep 1, 2013
Magic Ed
There's lots of good long routes in the Potrero Chico that are easily climbed in a day because they're bolted.

Voodoo Trance, 10 pitches, 11b
Yankee Clipper, 15 pitches, 12c
Thunderkiss, 9 pitches, 12a
3Stone Place, 6 pitches, 11d
Zapatista, 5 pitches, 12b
Devotion, 15 pitches, 11d
Land of the Free, 10 pitches, 12b
El Prisionero del Cielo, 8 pitches, 12a
Timewave Zero, 23 pitches, 12a
Sendero Diablo, 6 pitches, 11c

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Sep 1, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Would Freeride on Wallface have a place on the list? Maybe someone who has climbed it can chime in.

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Sep 1, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Oh top three... Perhaps not, but maybe?!

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By trad4eva
Sep 4, 2013
Grand wall finish in dihedrals Squamish
Freeway Squamish
Levitation 29 Red Rocks
North face castleton was fun for a short day

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By TeleRoss
From San Diego, CA
Sep 5, 2013
Romantic Warrior for the 5.12

Shune's Buttress for the 11

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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Sep 5, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.
Rainbow Wall Original Route, Rostrum, Positive Vibrations

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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Sep 6, 2013
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.
The Prow--Cathedral Ledge, NH
Lamplighters into Heaven's Gate--Index, WA
Japanese Gardens--Index, WA

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By James Crump
Sep 6, 2013
Optical Promise, Hueco Tanks

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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Jun 6, 2014
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.
Bump!

I think a worthy linkup is Texas Tower Direct to Texas Hold'em

I think that Texas Tower Direct is best climbed at 12a A0 taking the easier variations with 1 point of aid. I've heard this called Texas Tower Lite

This keeps the whole linkup at 12a with tons of 5.11 climbing!!

- Luke

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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Jun 6, 2014
Half Dome
D7 on the Diamond should be on the list.

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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Jun 7, 2014
After having climbed it, the Original Route and Rainbow Country in Red Rocks make the list.

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By Gee Double
Jun 19, 2014
mountainproject.com/v/beans-sh...

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By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Jun 19, 2014
onsight soloing Atman
The Bachar Yerian is quite good. It's five pitches. If you count the approach pitch to the ledge it meets the 6 pitch minimum set by the OP.

I'll also add another vote to the Original Route on Rainbow Wall.

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By Doug Fulford
Jun 20, 2014
For 5.11- it's a toss-up between Sunshine Crack on Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos and Positive Vibrations on The Incredible Hulk.

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