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Top Three 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch climbs in America?
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Feb 21, 2013
Rostrum, moonlight buttress, astroman. nelissam
Joined Apr 24, 2009
36 points
Feb 21, 2013
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Fun thread! Along with a lot of the others, my top 3 are Positive Vibrations, Sunspot Dihedral, and the Rostrum. Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,590 points
Administrator
Feb 21, 2013
El Chorro
I agree with camhead. By setting a 6 pitch limit you are eliminating desert towers, which host some of the best and most unique pitches in the US. Fine Jade and N. Face of Castleton are world class in every way. They can be combined in a day so they should at least count together.

I think you should ask for the best three Grade III routes, the three best three Grade IV and V and so on. Then you can include places like the Desert towers, the Needles, The Rockfellow Dome in Cochise, etc. Also, this discussion makes no sense if you can't include Canada.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Feb 21, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Another Fab climb..... you can do it in a day.

No aid or FRENCH and its 11b

mountainproject.com/v/the-regu...
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
189 points
Feb 21, 2013
Also a bit surprised that Silk Road on Calaveras Dome hasn't come up. I haven't done it either, but a few friends have said that it rivals anything in the Valley or the greater Sierra in quality. I have done Wall of the Worlds (.10c, so won't make the list) on Cal Dome, and that thing is phenomenal. Also known as "War of the Walls".

mountainproject.com/v/war-of-t...
Lurker
Joined Nov 24, 2007
1,821 points
Aug 23, 2013
20 kN wrote:
Sport or trad. At least six pitches, but doable in a day. No grade VI wall stuff. What are they? So far I am thinking Astroman for 5.11 and Moonlight Buttress for 5.12. What else?



Pale Fire on Moses
Antoine Savelli
From Ophir, CO
Joined Jul 25, 2013
146 points
Aug 23, 2013
You're going to pick pale fire over primrose? Tug
Joined Jul 8, 2007
6 points
Aug 23, 2013
My top three that I've done would be Don Juan Wall in the needles, Inferred in Moab, and The Grand Wall 5.11 A0. Tug
Joined Jul 8, 2007
6 points
Aug 27, 2013
Wow. That's kinda awesome.

Luke Stefurak wrote:
I've mainly climbed on the West Coast so I'd say: Rainbow Wall The Rostrum Positive Vibrations I put togeather a bunch of beta for most of the long routes I've done in the 5.11 and 5.12 range: dreaminvertical.com/2013/02/ma... The blog post has more beta versus quality info but there are links to a ton of trip reports. I think that all of the routes in the post are awesome. Here is a list in "difficulty" order. •Free-rider – 5.13-, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Regular NW Face – 5.12, Half Dome – Yosemite, CA •Sheer Lunacy – 5.12+, Zion, UT •Astroman – 5.11+, Washington Column – Yosemite, CA •Original Route – 5.12-, Rainbow Wall Red Rock, NV •Chouinard-Herbert – 5.11+, Sentinel Rock- Yosemite, CA •Hotline – 5.12, Elephant Rock – Yosemite, CA •Tradewinds – 5.12-, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •Free Blast – 5.11, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Astro-Hulk – 5.11, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •North Face- 5.11+, Rostrum – Yosemite, CA •Cloud Tower – 5.12- Red Rock, NV •Positive Vibrations – 5.11-, Incredible Hulk- High Sierra, CA •Levitation 29 – 5.11+ Red Rock, NV My favorite from last year was The Flying Buttress out on Merriam Peak. Four high quality pitches of 5.11 in the backcountry.
tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,615 points
Sep 1, 2013
Fine jade is my all time favorite climb martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Joined Jul 20, 2010
228 points
Sep 1, 2013
Magic Ed
There's lots of good long routes in the Potrero Chico that are easily climbed in a day because they're bolted.

Voodoo Trance, 10 pitches, 11b
Yankee Clipper, 15 pitches, 12c
Thunderkiss, 9 pitches, 12a
3Stone Place, 6 pitches, 11d
Zapatista, 5 pitches, 12b
Devotion, 15 pitches, 11d
Land of the Free, 10 pitches, 12b
El Prisionero del Cielo, 8 pitches, 12a
Timewave Zero, 23 pitches, 12a
Sendero Diablo, 6 pitches, 11c
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Sep 1, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Would Freeride on Wallface have a place on the list? Maybe someone who has climbed it can chime in. Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Sep 1, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Oh top three... Perhaps not, but maybe?! Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Sep 4, 2013
Grand wall finish in dihedrals Squamish
Freeway Squamish
Levitation 29 Red Rocks
North face castleton was fun for a short day
trad4eva
Joined Jan 24, 2013
12 points
Sep 5, 2013
Romantic Warrior for the 5.12

Shune's Buttress for the 11
TeleRoss
From San Diego, CA
Joined May 6, 2007
82 points
Sep 5, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
Rainbow Wall Original Route, Rostrum, Positive Vibrations Eric D
From Gnarnia
Joined Nov 29, 2006
212 points
Sep 6, 2013
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
The Prow--Cathedral Ledge, NH
Lamplighters into Heaven's Gate--Index, WA
Japanese Gardens--Index, WA
Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
2,312 points
Sep 6, 2013
Optical Promise, Hueco Tanks James Crump
Joined Dec 17, 2008
200 points
Jun 6, 2014
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
Bump!

I think a worthy linkup is Texas Tower Direct to Texas Hold'em

I think that Texas Tower Direct is best climbed at 12a A0 taking the easier variations with 1 point of aid. I've heard this called Texas Tower Lite

This keeps the whole linkup at 12a with tons of 5.11 climbing!!

- Luke
Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 26, 2006
2,388 points
Jun 6, 2014
Half Dome
D7 on the Diamond should be on the list. Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2006
352 points
Administrator
Jun 7, 2014
After having climbed it, the Original Route and Rainbow Country in Red Rocks make the list. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Jun 19, 2014
Middle Teton Cave Route: 5.12a, 5.7
mountainproject.com/v/beans-sh... Gee Double
Joined Mar 22, 2013
601 points
Jun 19, 2014
Doubleissima free solo
The Bachar Yerian is quite good. It's five pitches. If you count the approach pitch to the ledge it meets the 6 pitch minimum set by the OP.

I'll also add another vote to the Original Route on Rainbow Wall.
Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Joined Apr 15, 2009
368 points
Jun 20, 2014
For 5.11- it's a toss-up between Sunshine Crack on Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos and Positive Vibrations on The Incredible Hulk. Fulford
Joined Aug 8, 2011
29 points
Administrator
Oct 14, 2014
clay meier wrote:
mountainproject.com/images/12/... thats the best 5.11 Ive climbed

Which is?
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points


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