Top Three 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch climbs in America?
|
Sport or trad. At least six pitches, but doable in a day. No grade VI wall stuff. What are they? So far I am thinking Astroman for 5.11 and Moonlight Buttress for 5.12. What else? |
|
Anything on The Hulk. Maybe the Diamond as well. |
|
Hard to narrow down to three. Rainbow Wall in RR, Grand Wall in Squish, and Sendero Luminoso in Mex would be up there. |
|
Tague Yer Time, Black Canyon should definitely be on the list. |
|
Levitation 29 |
|
Freeway in Squamish |
|
University wall to the roman chimneys (squamish) has gotta be on the list. The steepness of the first two pitches is mind blowing and the rock quality is outstanding, I haven't been up the chimneys yet but the look amazing in photos and follow the natural weakness up the left side of the grandwall |
|
Guy H. wrote:Freeway in SquamishAre we talking 'The America's' or the US? Speaking of which: camhead wrote: Sendero Luminoso in Mex would be up there.That just came up in conversation with a pal. Remember the Letter to the Editor about that one? "The shining path or the road of the lost?" opined one reader of the mags who noted the bolts next to gear placements. Kurt Smith of course replied (or was it Brad Jackson?) that the gear was bad and the crack full of Cacti... Which may or may not be true. The funny thing is last week I was talking about what was controversy 17 years (?) ago and just got nominated for the list of the best routes in the grade on the continent... |
|
The Rostrum, Yosemite |
|
|
|
I've mainly climbed on the West Coast so I'd say: |
|
FreeBlast is up to 11+ ? it was easier at 11a |
|
How about this, what is the best 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch crack lines out there? So Astroman and the Rostrum for sure. What else? |
|
How about a little South Platte love? Childhoods End on Big Rock is as good as they come. |
|
Right. 5.11 for the Freeblast. I am just bad at slabs. I've done done all pitches clean on "harder" routes but still need to send those two free-blast slabs. Soon! |
|
A few more routes that I have not been on, but surely most deserve a place on the list, are: |
|
It'd be a crime to not include the Grand Wall in Squamish. |
|
Peter Franzen wrote:It'd be a crime to not include the Grand Wall in Squamish.Do people care that it has two bolt ladders? The only thing it doesn't have goin for it imho. I haven' climbed many 11 or 12 trad classics but I imagine Abracadaver in Cochise would make it. Somethng else in the desert too should probably get the ol' nod. That cal dome route looks freakin great. Thanks for the link |
|
Im surprised nobody has mentioned the West Face of El Cap. Definitely ranks up there in my top 11s and can pretty easily be done in a day (although I slept on thanksgiving ledge for fun). I also thought sunspot was better than positive vibes on the hulk. Grand wall was not nearly as good as freeway in Squamish, not even as good as Alaskan highway which would be awesome and rank up there as one one of the best if linked into the Calling. Oh Squamish. Good call on Silk Road to Karakoram, the road almost makes the list as is... can't wait to do that link. |
|
Still waiting for a second..... |
|
Brian Prince wrote: Somethng else in the desert too should probably get the ol' nod.True. Unfortunately, not too many tower routes are more than 6 pitches; most are 3-5. Fine Jade definitely should get mentioned in any discussion of classic 5.11 multipitch. Anyone know of any classic 5.11 routes in Zion? Most of the good ones I can think of are .12s. |