By 20 kN From Hawaii Feb 19, 2013
| Sport or trad. At least six pitches, but doable in a day. No grade VI wall stuff. What are they? So far I am thinking Astroman for 5.11 and Moonlight Buttress for 5.12. What else? |  FLAG |
By Ryan Williams Administrator From London (sort of) Feb 19, 2013
| Anything on The Hulk. Maybe the Diamond as well. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Feb 19, 2013
| Hard to narrow down to three. Rainbow Wall in RR, Grand Wall in Squish, and Sendero Luminoso in Mex would be up there. |  FLAG |
By Bryan Gilmore From Your Mama Feb 19, 2013
| Tague Yer Time, Black Canyon should definitely be on the list. |  FLAG |
By Guy H. From Fort Collins CO Feb 19, 2013
| Freeway in Squamish |  FLAG |
By Luke Cormier Feb 19, 2013
| University wall to the roman chimneys (squamish) has gotta be on the list. The steepness of the first two pitches is mind blowing and the rock quality is outstanding, I haven't been up the chimneys yet but the look amazing in photos and follow the natural weakness up the left side of the grandwall |  FLAG |
By Tony B From Around Boulder, CO Feb 19, 2013
| Guy H. wrote: Freeway in Squamish Are we talking 'The America's' or the US? Speaking of which:
camhead wrote: Sendero Luminoso in Mex would be up there. That just came up in conversation with a pal. Remember the Letter to the Editor about that one? "The shining path or the road of the lost?" opined one reader of the mags who noted the bolts next to gear placements. Kurt Smith of course replied (or was it Brad Jackson?) that the gear was bad and the crack full of Cacti... Which may or may not be true. The funny thing is last week I was talking about what was controversy 17 years (?) ago and just got nominated for the list of the best routes in the grade on the continent... |  FLAG |
By Tony Hawk Feb 19, 2013
| The Rostrum, Yosemite Naked Edge, Eldo D11, the Diamond gotta be something from the Needles right? some might be a bit less than 6 pitches though. |  FLAG |
By Luke Stefurak From Mountain View, CA Feb 19, 2013
| I've mainly climbed on the West Coast so I'd say: Rainbow Wall The Rostrum Positive Vibrations I put togeather a bunch of beta for most of the long routes I've done in the 5.11 and 5.12 range: www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/02/magnificent-multi-pitches/ The blog post has more beta versus quality info but there are links to a ton of trip reports. I think that all of the routes in the post are awesome. Here is a list in "difficulty" order. •Free-rider – 5.13-, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Regular NW Face – 5.12, Half Dome – Yosemite, CA •Sheer Lunacy – 5.12+, Zion, UT •Astroman – 5.11+, Washington Column – Yosemite, CA •Original Route – 5.12-, Rainbow Wall Red Rock, NV •Chouinard-Herbert – 5.11+, Sentinel Rock- Yosemite, CA •Hotline – 5.12, Elephant Rock – Yosemite, CA •Tradewinds – 5.12-, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •Free Blast – 5.11, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Astro-Hulk – 5.11, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •North Face- 5.11+, Rostrum – Yosemite, CA •Cloud Tower – 5.12- Red Rock, NV •Positive Vibrations – 5.11-, Incredible Hulk- High Sierra, CA •Levitation 29 – 5.11+ Red Rock, NV My favorite from last year was The Flying Buttress out on Merriam Peak. Four high quality pitches of 5.11 in the backcountry. |  FLAG |
By john strand From southern colo Feb 19, 2013
| FreeBlast is up to 11+ ? it was easier at 11a Romantic Warrior- needles Autobahn- half Dome Lab Wall Direct- cannon, nh |  FLAG |
By 20 kN From Hawaii Feb 19, 2013
| How about this, what is the best 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch crack lines out there? So Astroman and the Rostrum for sure. What else? |  FLAG |
By Glenn Schuler From Monument, Co. Feb 19, 2013
| How about a little South Platte love? Childhoods End on Big Rock is as good as they come. |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Feb 19, 2013
| A few more routes that I have not been on, but surely most deserve a place on the list, are: Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+) University Wall (5.12-) The Northern Lights (5.12-) (the latter two since we hav alreayd let Canada join the list. |  FLAG |
By Peter Franzen Administrator From Phoenix, AZ Feb 19, 2013
| It'd be a crime to not include the Grand Wall in Squamish. |  FLAG |
By Brian Prince From morro bay, ca Feb 20, 2013
| Peter Franzen wrote: It'd be a crime to not include the Grand Wall in Squamish. Do people care that it has two bolt ladders? The only thing it doesn't have goin for it imho. I haven' climbed many 11 or 12 trad classics but I imagine Abracadaver in Cochise would make it. Somethng else in the desert too should probably get the ol' nod. That cal dome route looks freakin great. Thanks for the link |  FLAG |
By Abel Jones From Hickory, NC Feb 20, 2013
| Im surprised nobody has mentioned the West Face of El Cap. Definitely ranks up there in my top 11s and can pretty easily be done in a day (although I slept on thanksgiving ledge for fun). I also thought sunspot was better than positive vibes on the hulk. Grand wall was not nearly as good as freeway in Squamish, not even as good as Alaskan highway which would be awesome and rank up there as one one of the best if linked into the Calling. Oh Squamish. Good call on Silk Road to Karakoram, the road almost makes the list as is... can't wait to do that link. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Feb 20, 2013
| Brian Prince wrote: Somethng else in the desert too should probably get the ol' nod. True. Unfortunately, not too many tower routes are more than 6 pitches; most are 3-5. Fine Jade definitely should get mentioned in any discussion of classic 5.11 multipitch. Anyone know of any classic 5.11 routes in Zion? Most of the good ones I can think of are .12s. |  FLAG |
By Fat Dad From Los Angeles, CA Feb 20, 2013
| Having done Freeblast and the West Face of the Captain are good routes, I can say they're good routes, but they don't seem to be mentioned in the same category as things such as The Rostrum or Astroman (which sadly, I have not climbed). The West Face does have terrific variety, good length and, heh, it is the Captain. I found Freeblast fun but not that involving. I'm kind of surprised by all the positive press it gets. I suppose you could toss Romantic Warrior (.12b) in there. Hard to beat the Needles, though most of the routes aren't over 6 pitches and so wouldn't qualify under the OP's checklist. |  FLAG |
By Jon C. Sullivan From Fort Collins, CO Feb 20, 2013
| To Clay Meier: What climb is that? Somewhere near Moab I assume but a bit more beta? I am heading out there soon and think I'd like to hop on that! Cheers |  FLAG |
By Brian Prince From morro bay, ca Feb 20, 2013
| Jon C. Sullivan wrote: To Clay Meier: What climb is that? Somewhere near Moab I assume but a bit more beta? I am heading out there soon and think I'd like to hop on that! Cheers I believe that's moses and has Primrose Dihedrals on it. Which was mentioned. Camhead, I think we're looking for 12's here too.. but yeah, Shune's Buttress is the obvious choice for 11's Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos is a contender. |  FLAG |
By VARMENT Feb 20, 2013
| 5.11 JulesVerne-Leenes Dream-Naked Edge link up in Eldorado Canyon CO |  FLAG |
By john strand From southern colo Feb 20, 2013
| Gotta agree with fatdad- West face is really good, but it's no Rostrum/Asroman/ etc primrose is on Moses.. you must do the original 11+ start.. god-hard it's maybe done in 4-5 pitches now ? |  FLAG |
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