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Top Three 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch climbs in America?
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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 19, 2013
Sport or trad. At least six pitches, but doable in a day. No grade VI wall stuff. What are they? So far I am thinking Astroman for 5.11 and Moonlight Buttress for 5.12. What else?

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Feb 19, 2013
El Chorro
Anything on The Hulk. Maybe the Diamond as well.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Feb 19, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
Hard to narrow down to three. Rainbow Wall in RR, Grand Wall in Squish, and Sendero Luminoso in Mex would be up there.

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By Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Feb 19, 2013
Beagle
Tague Yer Time, Black Canyon should definitely be on the list.

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By chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
Feb 19, 2013
Levitation 29

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By Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Feb 19, 2013
Crux roof on Freeway...
Freeway in Squamish

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By Luke Cormier
Feb 19, 2013
University wall to the roman chimneys (squamish) has gotta be on the list. The steepness of the first two pitches is mind blowing and the rock quality is outstanding, I haven't been up the chimneys yet but the look amazing in photos and follow the natural weakness up the left side of the grandwall

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
Guy H. wrote:
Freeway in Squamish

Are we talking 'The America's' or the US?

Speaking of which:
camhead wrote:
Sendero Luminoso in Mex would be up there.

That just came up in conversation with a pal. Remember the Letter to the Editor about that one? "The shining path or the road of the lost?" opined one reader of the mags who noted the bolts next to gear placements. Kurt Smith of course replied (or was it Brad Jackson?) that the gear was bad and the crack full of Cacti...
Which may or may not be true.
The funny thing is last week I was talking about what was controversy 17 years (?) ago and just got nominated for the list of the best routes in the grade on the continent...

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By Tony Hawk
Feb 19, 2013
The Rostrum, Yosemite

Naked Edge, Eldo

D11, the Diamond

gotta be something from the Needles right? some might be a bit less than 6 pitches though.

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By clay meier
Feb 19, 2013
Thats Me
mountainproject.com/images/12/...

thats the best 5.11 Ive climbed

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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Feb 19, 2013
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.
I've mainly climbed on the West Coast so I'd say:

Rainbow Wall
The Rostrum
Positive Vibrations

I put togeather a bunch of beta for most of the long routes I've done in the 5.11 and 5.12 range:

dreaminvertical.com/2013/02/ma...

The blog post has more beta versus quality info but there are links to a ton of trip reports.

I think that all of the routes in the post are awesome. Here is a list in "difficulty" order.

•Free-rider – 5.13-, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA
•Regular NW Face – 5.12, Half Dome – Yosemite, CA
•Sheer Lunacy – 5.12+, Zion, UT
•Astroman – 5.11+, Washington Column – Yosemite, CA
•Original Route – 5.12-, Rainbow Wall Red Rock, NV
•Chouinard-Herbert – 5.11+, Sentinel Rock- Yosemite, CA
•Hotline – 5.12, Elephant Rock – Yosemite, CA
•Tradewinds – 5.12-, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA
•Free Blast – 5.11, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA
•Astro-Hulk – 5.11, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA
•North Face- 5.11+, Rostrum – Yosemite, CA
•Cloud Tower – 5.12- Red Rock, NV
•Positive Vibrations – 5.11-, Incredible Hulk- High Sierra, CA
•Levitation 29 – 5.11+ Red Rock, NV

My favorite from last year was The Flying Buttress out on Merriam Peak. Four high quality pitches of 5.11 in the backcountry.

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By john strand
From southern colo
Feb 19, 2013
FreeBlast is up to 11+ ? it was easier at 11a

Romantic Warrior- needles

Autobahn- half Dome

Lab Wall Direct- cannon, nh

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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 19, 2013
How about this, what is the best 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch crack lines out there? So Astroman and the Rostrum for sure. What else?

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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Feb 19, 2013
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...
How about a little South Platte love? Childhoods End on Big Rock is as good as they come.

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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Feb 19, 2013
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.
Right. 5.11 for the Freeblast. I am just bad at slabs. I've done done all pitches clean on "harder" routes but still need to send those two free-blast slabs. Soon!

I hear some good things about cracks out at Calaveres Dome.

Check out this TR from Supertopo:

supertopo.com/tr/Silk-Road-to-...

- Luke

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Feb 19, 2013
A few more routes that I have not been on, but surely most deserve a place on the list, are:

Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
University Wall (5.12-)
The Northern Lights (5.12-) (the latter two since we hav alreayd let Canada join the list.

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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Feb 19, 2013
Belay
It'd be a crime to not include the Grand Wall in Squamish.

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By Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
Feb 20, 2013
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.
Peter Franzen wrote:
It'd be a crime to not include the Grand Wall in Squamish.


Do people care that it has two bolt ladders? The only thing it doesn't have goin for it imho. I haven' climbed many 11 or 12 trad classics but I imagine Abracadaver in Cochise would make it. Somethng else in the desert too should probably get the ol' nod.

That cal dome route looks freakin great. Thanks for the link

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By Abel Jones
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 20, 2013
Nice Crisp day for an FA
Im surprised nobody has mentioned the West Face of El Cap. Definitely ranks up there in my top 11s and can pretty easily be done in a day (although I slept on thanksgiving ledge for fun). I also thought sunspot was better than positive vibes on the hulk. Grand wall was not nearly as good as freeway in Squamish, not even as good as Alaskan highway which would be awesome and rank up there as one one of the best if linked into the Calling. Oh Squamish. Good call on Silk Road to Karakoram, the road almost makes the list as is... can't wait to do that link.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 20, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Still waiting for a second.....

One can do the climb in a day....


mountainproject.com/v/despaira...

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Feb 20, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
Brian Prince wrote:
Somethng else in the desert too should probably get the ol' nod.


True. Unfortunately, not too many tower routes are more than 6 pitches; most are 3-5. Fine Jade definitely should get mentioned in any discussion of classic 5.11 multipitch.

Anyone know of any classic 5.11 routes in Zion? Most of the good ones I can think of are .12s.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 20, 2013
Having done Freeblast and the West Face of the Captain are good routes, I can say they're good routes, but they don't seem to be mentioned in the same category as things such as The Rostrum or Astroman (which sadly, I have not climbed). The West Face does have terrific variety, good length and, heh, it is the Captain. I found Freeblast fun but not that involving. I'm kind of surprised by all the positive press it gets.

I suppose you could toss Romantic Warrior (.12b) in there. Hard to beat the Needles, though most of the routes aren't over 6 pitches and so wouldn't qualify under the OP's checklist.

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By Jon C. Sullivan
From Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2013
approach to the Grand
To Clay Meier:
What climb is that? Somewhere near Moab I assume but a bit more beta? I am heading out there soon and think I'd like to hop on that!
Cheers

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By Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
Feb 20, 2013
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.
Jon C. Sullivan wrote:
To Clay Meier: What climb is that? Somewhere near Moab I assume but a bit more beta? I am heading out there soon and think I'd like to hop on that! Cheers


I believe that's moses and has Primrose Dihedrals on it. Which was mentioned.

Camhead, I think we're looking for 12's here too.. but yeah, Shune's Buttress is the obvious choice for 11's

Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos is a contender.

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By VARMENT
From Boulder, Colorado
Feb 20, 2013
base of castelton
5.11 JulesVerne-Leenes Dream-Naked Edge link up in Eldorado Canyon CO

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By john strand
From southern colo
Feb 20, 2013
Gotta agree with fatdad- West face is really good, but it's no Rostrum/Asroman/ etc

primrose is on Moses.. you must do the original 11+ start.. god-hard it's maybe done in 4-5 pitches now ?

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