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Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter 

Top Sirloin 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 7,409
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Mar 22, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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B+W of Top Sirloin. Still Life with Crushing

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Top Sirloin is a very clean left-facing corner of amazing uniformity, plaqued, to the left of Tube Steaks etc. which are at the top of the trail. It's all about thin hands in a corner. My large-handed buddy found the crux to be about 40 feet up in a shallow flare where he found it necessary to pull on a couple of #2 Friends; I was able to free this while placing red camalots (hence the 'optional' #2 F's).A 60m rope was barely workable.


8-10 red (#1) Camalots and #2.5 Friends; 2 #2 Friends (optional); 1 4" piece for the bottom.

Photos of Top Sirloin Slideshow Add Photo
Bill Boyle "Top Sirloin" onsight.
Bill Boyle "Top Sirloin" onsight.
Aaron Cloud wishing he had 12 red camalots.
Aaron Cloud wishing he had 12 red camalots.
Buster gets it clean, while I take a nice wiper on it.  Pumpy thin hands
Buster gets it clean, while I take a nice wiper on...
Top Sirloin in all its glory.
Top Sirloin in all its glory.
Top Sirloin. 4/2012.
Top Sirloin. 4/2012.
Comments on Top Sirloin Add Comment
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By Paul Nelson
Sep 21, 2005

12-13 red camalots may be overdoing it. You can get by with 8-10, and as I remember there was even a place for a gold or two. This is one of the best corners at the creek.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

good thin hands the whole way.

By Hayduke Cloud
From: Denver, CO
Jun 20, 2006

This is a must-do on a cliff that has quite a few outstanding climbs. No trickery on this climb, just be ready for red-camalot sized jams from start to finish. Towards the top it kicks back and pods out to where there are some good hands.

By misterclimberman
Sep 4, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

bad ass route on a bad ass wall.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Go for it between pods and stems! Smaller hands are helpful. Harder than Blue Gramma and other climbs at the grade.

By Dpurf
From: Superior
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

What a great climb and the one thing that kept going through my head was 'This crack is going to get bigger up there, it's got to'. But it never does. Thin Hands forever.

By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2008

Alf called it "The Red Camalot Excursion." I'd say that's fair.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

If you have a normal hand size, this corner is really hard. One of the bulges felt like I was trying to stuff my hand in the crack, but obviously it was never going to fit. The top gets easier when it is not as steep anymore. Probably the hardest 5.11 I have tried with my hand size.

I have a friend go at this route on TR and her hands fit perfectly in thin hand cracks. She is already a good climber, but she thought that "Top Sirloin" was almost a perfect hand crack for her.

The crack reminds me of the "black corner", which I also thought was really hard, but "Top Sirloin" is much harder and longer.

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Mar 24, 2013

Harder for big hands for sure..