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Top roping from cold shuts
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By jtmann
From O
May 2, 2013
When using cold shuts as a top rope anchor, what is the most common method for rigging the rope? Is it acceptable to put the rope through the shuts or are you supposed to clip biners on each one and make an equalized anchor? From my experience, they are different from bolts with rap rings because there are usually no bolt hangers to clip biners in to set up a top rope anchor when cold shuts are there. If top roping a route with hangers and rap rings I use the hangers to build my top rope anchor so as not to wear out the rings. Is it the same with the cold shuts?

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By cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
May 2, 2013
Hanging at Seneca
I just treat the shuts like a hanger. I use my own gear to TR from, then the shuts for the last peson to come down.

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By Chris Norwood
From San Diego, CA
May 2, 2013
High on the Beckey Route on the Bastille Buttress ...
Why would you do anything different than with hangers? Just because they are of a slightly different shape? It can be easy to get caught up in the minutiae sometimes, but ultimately the same rules apply as for any top rope with fixed gear -- preserve the long-term integrity of the fixed hardware! This means building your own equalized anchor and only running the rope through the shuts when you need to rap.

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By Jeff Thilking
From Lynchburg, VA
May 2, 2013
Rap
Chris Norwood wrote:
only running the rope through the shuts when you need to rap.


+1

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By Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
May 2, 2013
beck on limestone
Chris Norwood wrote:
Why would you do anything different than with hangers? Just because they are of a slightly different shape? It can be easy to get caught up in the minutiae sometimes, but ultimately the same rules apply as for any top rope with fixed gear -- preserve the long-term integrity of the fixed hardware! This means building your own equalized anchor and only running the rope through the shuts when you need to rap.


Only thing I might add is I sometimes girth hitch runners on the shuts if I am concerned the rope might come out during a follow.

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By jtmann
From O
May 2, 2013
I guess I should have been more specific and said open cold shuts. I like the girth hitch idea, as the open shuts kind of sketch me out.

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By Zirkel
From Bishop, CA
May 2, 2013
Owens Gorge.  Mt Tom in background.
I remove the top biners from two sport draws and thread the open shuts through the sewn loops. Bottom gates opposed, of course.

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By Rob Selter
From running springs Ca
May 2, 2013
me
That boy Chris you tell them. People up here seem to think they can just TR on anything!

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By Steven Groetken
From Durango, CO
May 3, 2013
On top of Hitchcock Pinnacle.
If you're really sketched by slinging an open cold shut, I'd suggest clove hitching it. I've slung chicken heads before with a girth hitch only to find them come loose due to rope drag, wind etc. a clove hitch won't move as much.

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By Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
May 3, 2013
Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
un-welded open-hook cold shuts are an older sport climb anchor solution and rarely used anymore.

(Yer Gonna Die!!!)

If the climb is worth doing, the anchors are worth updating.
Yank that crap off the climb and install real bolt hangers with threadable rings or chain.

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By chuffnugget
From Bolder, CO
May 3, 2013
Open shuts are scary in theory, but in practice has one ever 'failed'... in that the rope somehow unwieghted and lept 6" in the air while someone was being lowered?

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By doak
From boulder, co
May 4, 2013
Drinking with Moses
Rather than the rope flicking out, I think the bigger hazard is wearing a groove in the cold shut to the point where it might fold out under modest loads.

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By Jeremy Hand
May 4, 2013
slopey
Open hook cold shuts are tried and true and perform their job exactly as decribed... with any puece of hardware there is going to be grooving with age. The plus to the open shuts is the ease of anchoring and they're cost effective. I guess it really depends (like all hardware) on what materials are used to manufacture them and the environment you live in... no matter what YER GONNA DIE

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
May 8, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
To Kirk Miller.... please don't ask someone who askes such questions to replace anchors. Bad idea IMHO.

Rather than the rope flicking out, I think the bigger hazard is wearing a groove in the cold shut to the point where it might fold out under modest loads.

In reality a slightly worn shut holds more. In testing ungrooved ones start to roll and keep on rolling and rolling intill they are straight and the rope flyes out. When they are grooved the rolling stops but as the loading keeps increasing you get to a point where the rope/force overcomes the shut.

To answer the OP-

I like to put a draw on them, cause metal to metal contact is best - IMHO - only.

For the future though:

I just love the anchors that, Scott Ayers is using. (at Zapa Dome, Sheepshead) First time I ran across one of those rigs I thought to myself - "just brilliant- something you can't top rope from - it will never wear and will last for about 100 years"

I have started using those on climbs I do.

Much better than woring about maintenance.


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By Jon H
From Boulder
May 9, 2013
At the matching crux
Guy Keesee wrote:
I just love the anchors that, Scott Ayers is using. (at Zapa Dome, Sheepshead) First time I ran across one of those rigs I thought to myself - "just brilliant- something you can't top rope from - it will never wear and will last for about 100 years"


Can you provide a link or more info?

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By divnamite
From New York, NY
May 9, 2013
I think that's one chain and one hanger method. People weren't too happy about it at one point, but test result seems to be good.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
May 10, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
I think that's one chain and one hanger method. People weren't too happy about it at one point, but test result seems to be good.

Oh sorry, typing on my iPhone... gets confusing. I thought I had a photo at home but I couldn't find it....

Yes it is: one regular hanger with about 10 inches of chain and one of those beefy "Rap" hangers... you stick the rap hanger next to the end of the chain. Works just fine as a anchor you just can't lower from it without messing up your rope. My partner was sort of confused the first time he got to one... but even he figgured it out.

I'll try to find the photo I took cause it's worth a 1,000,000 words.

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