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top rope soloing in little and big

Original Post
jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Hey guys, I was thinking about getting into top rope soloing and I am searching for routes/crags in little and big cottonowood that you could walk around to the anchors. I have already been thinking that the slips could be rapped into, beach ball crag (but everyone free solo's that anyways), the wave crag, bong eater, le creme de shorts (shares anchors with an easy 5.5 next to it which is easy to free solo). Those are all I can think of but if you have any other routes or crags let me know (preferably routes in little cottonwood)!

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Margin for Air, Yellow Peril, Cheese Block, JHCOB, Dead Snag, Narcolepsy, S curve, Goodro's, Big in Japan, Shady Lane, Power Plant (the 11a).

Mexican crack, The Keel, Paranoia Streak, Cranial Prophylactic area, The Scourge/Chicken Rodeo, The Rumba, Prune face, Half a finger, Daffy's Shaft, Lisa Fall's left (don't bother), lots of stuff on SuperSlab.

You can scramble to the top of most of these although some are quite spooky.

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

In LCC a few that come to mind would be Plumb Line, Hellgate Condos, and a few routes at Lisa falls.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

Bongeater is a classic easy TR to set up.

Barefoot in Barbados is also easy to throw a rope on.

Skat B · · Down Rodeo · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,075

Crack in the Woods, Closet Lycra (easy free solo up the 5.6 to the right), Razor's Edge, Anything on BongEater Buttress, Coffin Crack (by going up the gully to the left), The Monolith (although technically a highball boulder problem with anchors on top), i'll try to think of some more that I've tried TRing solo.

Shad Williams · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 25
Skat B wrote:Crack in the Woods, Closet Lycra (easy free solo up the 5.6 to the right), Razor's Edge, Anything on BongEater Buttress, Coffin Crack (by going up the gully to the left), The Monolith (although technically a highball boulder problem with anchors on top), i'll try to think of some more that I've tried TRing solo.
is it hard to get to the crack in the woods anchors to set up a TR?
jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I have never tried but when my buddy free solo's it he just uses the chimney/scramble to the left. It's not terrible from the looks of it.

Skat B · · Down Rodeo · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,075
Shad Williams wrote: is it hard to get to the crack in the woods anchors to set up a TR?
There's a gully to the direct left of the climb that is pretty easy to get up. Just scrambling. Nothing that I felt was remotely class 5 climbing. And it leads right to a flat spot above the anchors so it's really safe.

Someone said Mexican Crack could be rope soloed. I never knew that. How easy is it to get up to the chains cuz I'd be interested in that!
jason Wisniewski95 · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Yeah, anyone know how to get to the top of mexican crack? I assume it would be either scramble up to the top of hand jive in that gully with that cord hanging between hand jive and crack in the woods and rap from there to the top of that 5.6 chimney then rap off something there to mexican crack. Or just free solo the 5.6 chimney and rap off something to get to mexican crack? I am close?

Skat B · · Down Rodeo · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,075
jason Wisniewski95 wrote:Yeah, anyone know how to get to the top of mexican crack? I assume it would be either scramble up to the top of hand jive in that gully with that cord hanging between hand jive and crack in the woods and rap from there to the top of that 5.6 chimney then rap off something there to mexican crack. Or just free solo the 5.6 chimney and rap off something to get to mexican crack? I am close?
LOL dude you crack me up. If that's the way, then it sounds pretty involved. You could easily (and safely) free solo the first two pitches of crescent crack and walk off the ramp in the time it would take you to do that. haha but still i'm curious.

Two of my favorite climbs to TR rope solo using a grigri are "Extreme Unction" and "Skinny Len Crimps" in Ferguson Canyon. Actually, quite a few climbs in ferguson can be rope soloed on a fixed rope.

But if you're looking to do laps on something, I'd personally suggest free soloing the first two pitches of crescent crack, walking down the ramp, then a quick easy 4th class climb to the base of Coffin Buttress. Then run down the trail and repeat. It's pretty fun but I'd suggest trying the offwidth on gear before soloing it (I made that mistake years ago).

climb safe dude!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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