top rope soloable routes in big or little cottonwood.

I'm looking for a good .12a or .12b that can be top rope soloed after work when i can't find a partner. I'm sure that this doesn't need mention but this means i'd have to be able to hike up to the anchor to set up my ropes. A gear route would be swell.

Thanks in advance

Try bong eater 5.10d
The chains are easy to get to.

there's a 12 on the arete left of bongeater that takes some gear...

The chains at the top of Prowser (the aforementioned climb next to bongeater) would be a little sketchy to scramble to without a rope. However, you can fix a rope to the bongeater anchors, then put yourself on belay with a Gri-Gri and scramble over there. That way you can have a rope on Bongeater to warm up, then work on Prowser.

Bong Eater was my project a year or so ago and I top rope soloed it until I felt comfortable enough to lead it.

Anything else you guys know of?

I think you can top rope (with some effort) Big Time in Japan (12b) at the Storm Mtn Amphitheater. There is a 5.7 climb just to the left of the roof called Encore. I believe rapping from these chains will bring you down over the Big time route. You should be able to walk to those chains if you follow the hiking trail up and scramble the last bit. It wouldn't take much time to scope it out. The Encore description says you can barely get down with a 70 or walk off.

Actually you only need a single strand to climb on, correct? In that case you could easily walk up, tie off to the higher chains, wrap single strand and put a draw through the Big Time chains in case the higher ones are not directly above and rap to the ground and you are ready to go.

How about "Eye in the Sky"?

Derrick W wrote:However, you can fix a rope to the bongeater anchors, then put yourself on belay with a Gri-Gri and scramble over there.

Have you actually ever done this? Seems way sketch with possibly a fat fall into Bongeater's dihedral.

rging wrote:I think you can top rope (with some effort) Big Time in Japan (12b) at the Storm Mtn Amphitheater.

Yes, it's easy. Don't know why you would fix to the higher anchor though. Then you would have to ascend the line to get the rope back (or hike up again). It's pretty chossy terrain. Simple to make a single rap down to BIJ's anchor.

Gary Taylor wrote:How about "Eye in the Sky"?

You're kidding right?

Steele reserve 11c- hike right to the anchor, plus you can try the hard routes below steele.

Left Pile 12b- quick access, short rap to the anchor

Aquaduck 10dR- short rap off a good tree

No Jive Arete 12a(really, really hard)- short rap off bomber tree.

If the anchor's aren't accessible, maybe you could aid or stick your way up. Or better yet, get in touch with me. I'm down to go work some 12's in the evenings.

Your request doesn't have many options IMO. As you can see from the answers so far, you've gotten .10 gear routes, and .12 sport routes, but not .12 gear routes.

The only one I can think of that would closely fit both those requirements is coyne crack, 11d out on the thumb. Its a finger crack that does not have anchors but has a bomber crack to build an anchor in. the only problem is you would have to solo a short 20' 5.7 section out of the thumb gully to get to it.

Raz ma tazz is good too, but its more of a boulder problem.

The monolith is easily TR'd. 11c R shorter. Its gear but i"m too scared to lead it. leans.

You could probably rig something up at S curve or Broads fork crag if something inspired you at either one.

Speed trap is easily accessed but its wicked overhung. clip in on way down? same with my current project, cross eyed.

otherwise all my other recommendations are too leaning or too overhung or you can't access anchors. I'm fairly sure you can't hike to the top of the psychobabble wall(eye in the sky).

one of my favorites is Goodro's crack BBC 5-10

I've done it before. You certainly wouldn't want to slip, but the scrambling is really easy. The rope would be mostly to promote mental calmness.