By percious From: Bear Creek, CO May 4, 2012 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a PG13
There is a large block on this about 3/4 way up that looks fairly unstable. I'll X it the next time I'm there. It's going to need a crowbar and may destabilize the block above if removed. I'd advise against its use. Looking for feedback as to whether folks want this thing gone.
Otherwise, this is a great route with solution pockets, and an unbelievable rail appears, just when you need it. Fun!
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Nov 13, 2012 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
I did not see an unstable block. Have you removed it? Edges appear on this right when you need them.
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Jan 27, 2013 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a PG13
FFA: Chris Perkins and Kristin Knudson, 1/27/2013.
We dubbed it Frozen Fingers.
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Jan 28, 2013 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a PG13
FYI, the block in still there, it may be stable, it may not.
By Furthermore Sep 3, 2013 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a PG13
There is a finger pocket on the lower third with a wasp nest in it.
The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.
Moreover, I think this route would be best protected by tri-cams.
I would stay off this route until the anchor is fixed. I am a structural geologist (study of how rocks bend, break, and deform), and too feel that the block is questionable. Not only that, but the upper bolt is now loose and wiggling. I live up the hill in Idledale and love these routes for my beginner friends. I have no anchor placement experience but would be willing to help pay and/or work to fix it.