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Top rope ice
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By Danomcq
Feb 6, 2013
Canon ct

Anyone one see any reason why it would be a problem for two beginners to top rope on ice with out experienced people around?? That is assuming belay technique is solid of course. I'm asking this because everything I've read emphasizes the HUGE difference in safety factor on ice vs rock. Maybe it's lack of experience but I just don't see a huge risk with a proper top rope set up and proper belay technique. Leading and placing pro however,....long way off

Open to suggestions here


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By tom303
From anchorage
Feb 6, 2013

The biggest problem I can think of is that you wouldn't progress as quickly compared to having an experienced coach/mentor. Safety factors that go beyond belay technique include falling ice and potential avalanche danger (route dependent, of course).

As Will Gadd says: if the number one rule of ice climbing is that the leader never falls, surely the second rule is that the belayer never stands in the line of fire of falling ice.

Yer probably not gonna die.


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By Danomcq
Feb 6, 2013
Canon ct

Tom

I have read a lot of will gaffs stuff, blogs, his book ETC. along with freedom, his book is one of my favorite reads. It's because of advice from people like him that I want just do some major laps top roping. I feel like I have the knowledge to place pro from reading all the books, yotube tutorials and all that stuff, but I have little to no experience reading the ice itself or any actual experience placing pro. That frankly, scares the shit outta me.
And yes I would love to climb with a mentor, but I've had very few chances because of unpredictable military schedule.

Thanks for the input though.

"Probably not gonna die"----story of my life


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By tom303
From anchorage
Feb 6, 2013

Sounds like you are taking a wise approach. Leading ice should scare the shit out of you. Take it slow, learn the ice in a variety of conditions, and mostly importantly, live to climb another day. Mr. Gadd suggests 150 pitches of top rope ice before leading, allowing plenty of time to learn how variable ice can be.


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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Feb 6, 2013

Depends on the ice. If you guys are rookies on ice it probably means you are rookies on crampons. If that is the case, find some low angled stuff first and hone crampon technics, get a "feel" for the ice and how it feels to you. Then start working on steep stuff. Footwork and body position are EVERYTHING to climbing ice efficiently. I agree with the others, flailing around on ice with no direct instruction will lead to poor technics in the long run. Leading ice is no trivial task. Learning what ice feels like, when its good, and when it's not, is key to staying alive. Be safe, and keep the pointy side down.


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By Danomcq
Feb 7, 2013
Canon ct

Solo...
I'm not on a pure rookie on crampons, I used them a lot working at ski comps when I was a kid. I've done some WI 2 and 3 routes following an experienced leader and some general mountaineering, rainier, Washington and lots of plain old winter hiking.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 7, 2013
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

don't post on here! hang a toprope and don't belay directly underneath the climber. Read up on the "moving triangle", one you get that dialed steep ice goes from a nightmare to pleasant and enjoyable.

Have fun in the frozen stuff


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By Danomcq
Feb 7, 2013
Canon ct

Don't post???

WTF mate? Fucking kangaroos


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 7, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

Danomcq wrote:
Don't post??? WTF mate? Fucking kangaroos



some people on this site like to tear noobs apart.... that being said as far as you op you can learn a lot of TR for ice, biggest thing though is you really want to know ice before you start playing with screws that you'll trust you life to, so do you have local ice you cen set TR's on via chains or maybe tie some trees? sadly many a climber has been injured setting TR's so be cautious, we even had a local fatality out here from a climber just trying to get to the TR anchors on a popular newbie climb


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By Danomcq
Feb 7, 2013
Canon ct

I've been stuck in Florida most of the winter, so to propping anything is in short supply here in. This state, which by the way has a max elevation of like 400 feet or something. But I'll be back in New England in a couple weeks to catch the tail end of the season and ill have most of march off so I plan on doing some climbing. I do know a few guides who have some spots for me and a buddy to top rope at and I've got plenty of stuff to make some top rope anchors. I've got a good 500 yes of webbing with plenty of heavy military biners that aren't good for much else


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 7, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

where exactly in NE will you be going back to?


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By Danomcq
Feb 7, 2013
Canon ct

Living eastern CT,..... I'll spend time climbing in ct if there is any ice, doubt full,.... More than likely taking trips to rumney, North Conway, maybe the dacks, I used to live in lake placid and have wanted to go back for some time now, good climbing there. S I might hit up the Keene valley area. Y do you ask?


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 7, 2013
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

excuse me for viciously tearing this noob apart by suggesting that he spend more time getting out ice climbing and less time on MP.

as long as you have common sense you'll be fine tring ice, just go get after it. the procedure is the same as for rock.

you definitely are not going to die


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By Danomcq
Feb 7, 2013
Canon ct

As of right now the navy has me stuck here in Florida where the closest gym is 2 hours away, so trolling on MP I will go


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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Feb 7, 2013

Danomcq wrote:
Anyone one see any reason why it would be a problem for two beginners to top rope on ice with out experienced people around?? That is assuming belay technique is solid of course. I'm asking this because everything I've read emphasizes the HUGE difference in safety factor on ice vs rock. Maybe it's lack of experience but I just don't see a huge risk with a proper top rope set up and proper belay technique. Leading and placing pro however,....long way off Open to suggestions here



As anyone will tell you having an experienced person is benificial. How ever if your belay techniques are solid and you keep off the line of falling ice. Go for it. Everyone has to start somewhere. It will most likely take a little longer to get the motions of ice climbing down but be safe and have fun.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2013
Bocan

As long as you're safe, have at it...however just avoid all the noob crap. Meaning watch out for others at the crag, don't throw ropes down on people, smash the hell out of the ice, kick ice down on others etc. We've left the flows quite a few times because the other ice climbers made it a very unsafe place or it was just a matter of time before someone hurt themselves and we didn't want to be around for that.

Just my .02. Have fun, don't poke yourself!


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By Jeff Fiedler
Feb 7, 2013

Go for it.

Keep the sharp pointy bits off your rope

Keep your face away from your tools when you yank them out of the ice


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 7, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Scott McMahon wrote:
As long as you're safe, have at it...however just avoid all the noob crap. Meaning watch out for others at the crag, don't throw ropes down on people, smash the hell out of the ice, kick ice down on others etc. We've left the flows quite a few times because the other ice climbers made it a very unsafe place or it was just a matter of time before someone hurt themselves and we didn't want to be around for that. Just my .02. Have fun, don't poke yourself!


amen! And watch your face for ice-chunks raining from above!


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By Steve M
From MN
Feb 7, 2013

The most dangerous part of TRing ice is setting up your anchor. Dont trip and take the ride all the way down. Other than that and falling ice it's all fun...except colder and more painful. Since you're in the military you should get the perverse fun through suffering part of ice climbing almost immediately.

After your first couple times out start practicing down climbing. When you're ready for your first lead it's nice to know you can back off if need be.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Feb 7, 2013

In general, no problems. Often more experienced climbers will assume you defer to those leading or wanting to lead the ice when TR'ing.

In general, don't TR a line with someone else on the same line...unless it is super wide.

Always wear a helmet, visor is even better.

Don't yank out tools with your face in line of the pull.

Beware of ice when it is convex in shape. It will fracture and rain down upon those below, including you.

Like someone posted, don't get hurt trying to set up a TR. If in doubt, stay belayed. When in doubt, don't hang out in terrain where you could get hurt unattached to your tools unless belayed from above.

Finally, if there is sun on your anchor, have something other than ice screws for anchors.


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