Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion)
|1,566 page views|
Our interpretation is that you climb up the face to the roof at which point you swing out onto the arete and reach way up (crux) for a good hold. Finish by coming back toward the center of the face.
Set up an anchor that reduces the pendulum potential as much as possible. You'll need some #2 Friends, a #1 Friend, stoppers, or the like plus some 5 foot slings and runners for equalization. ;-) It looks like someone has drilled holes for bolts, but hasn't put them in yet.
Eds. there are now 4 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. You could use a finger-sized cam. The right anchor has now been fixed.
To the right of the climber in the photo to the right is the route.
|Photos of Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) Slideshow
Josh Campbell stands triumphant above the roof.
BETA PHOTO: 4. New River Gorge Homesick Blues, 9+.
5. The Viru...
|Comments on Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion)
|By Sam Benedict|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 18, 2006
If this is the route just right of the Big Dihedral, and I think it is, then I have some news. The route has been bolted, badly, not only should this be a trad route, but one of anchor bolts is in very bad shape. It's totally loose. I don't know too much about bolts, but I would assume that the nut should not be adjustable by girly fingers. I started tightening it, but that only made the bolt come out further, and I'm guessing that is a bad thing. Somebody who knows what they are doing should come fix this so as to prevent injury and/or death.
|By J mac|
Jan 9, 2010
The anchor bolt has been fixed.
|By Don Morris|
From: Denver, CO
Oct 30, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The route is right of the dihedral, and has a name, Top Rope Face (11c), Hubbel, Peter and Schovajsa, Deaun, Classic Rock Climbs No. 17 Golden Cliffs, Colorado, 1997. The bolts are solid now, and placed well for a decent sport climb.