Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion)
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Our interpretation is that you climb up the face to the roof at which point you swing out onto the arete and reach way up (crux) for a good hold. Finish by coming back toward the center of the face.
Set up an anchor that reduces the pendulum potential as much as possible. You'll need some #2 Friends, a #1 Friend, stoppers, or the like plus some 5 foot slings and runners for equalization. ;-) It looks like someone has drilled holes for bolts, but hasn't put them in yet.
Eds. there are now 4 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. You could use a finger-sized cam. The right anchor has now been fixed.
To the right of the climber in the photo
to the right is the route.
This should clear up the route description issue, ...
Josh Campbell stands triumphant above the roof.
Josh Darnell on "Rising Passion" nearing...
|Comments on Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion)
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Sep 18, 2006
If this is the route just right of the Big Dihedral, and I think it is, then I have some news. The route has been bolted, badly, not only should this be a trad route, but one of anchor bolts is in very bad shape. It's totally loose. I don't know too much about bolts, but I would assume that the nut should not be adjustable by girly fingers. I started tightening it, but that only made the bolt come out further, and I'm guessing that is a bad thing. Somebody who knows what they are doing should come fix this so as to prevent injury and/or death.
By J mac
Jan 9, 2010
The anchor bolt has been fixed.
By Don Morris
From: Denver, CO
Oct 30, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The route is right of the dihedral, and has a name, Top Rope Face (11c), Hubbel, Peter and Schovajsa, Deaun, Classic Rock Climbs No. 17 Golden Cliffs, Colorado, 1997. The bolts are solid now, and placed well for a decent sport climb.