|By Adam Kimmerly|
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Tricky and sustained moves, and a really fun route. The difficulties end soon after the last bolt, and the moves through the bulge with the crack at the top are relatively easy.
Start off a talus block with an immediately tenuous step up onto a good right foot, clip the bolt, and dive into the first crux - a traverse straight left to the stance for the second bolt. Straightforward moves up to the third bolt set you up for the funky moves past the third bolt. Hand and foot holds are dismal, far apart, and seem to be in all the wrong places. At the fourth bolt, you head back to the right for the third crux of the route. Clip the fifth bolt, move up and right to the big flake, and mantel up onto the first seriously good rest stance of the route. Catch your breath, clip the sixth bolt and dive into the final crimpy section of the route. At the bulge, plug in a solid .75 camalot, pull the roof with good footholds, and run it on out on jugs to the top.