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Eagle Canyon
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Unnamed Left S 
Unnamed Right S 

Top Hat 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Leslie Coon?
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007

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In the crux section of "Unnamed Middle".

Description 

Another excellent, long Eagle Canyon face climb. This line faces slightly more north than its twin "Unnamed Left", so it receives more shade, and so is a bit mossy-er. Despite the slightly less than ideal stone, this route offers a rope-stretching pitch of great climbing capped by an intimidating roof.

Begin by scrambling up the ramp-like dihedral. Head up the steep slab to a technical crux around the 4th and 5th bolts. A timely jaunt onto the right arete provides some key relief before veering back left. The final roof can be surmounted directly on good pockets, or its possible to traverse left around it, depending on your preference.


Location 

Immediately right of "Unnamed Left", or two routes right of Manhattan.


Protection 

10 bolts, shares the anchor with "Unnamed Left".



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The entertaining start of "Unnamed Middle".
The entertaining start of "Unnamed Middle".
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 22, 2008

Only 10 bolts, and I thought the crux was between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it is pretty sustained all the way.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.

I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong.

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 5, 2009

I believe this route is called "Top Hat."

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 5, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought this route was stellar. Never thought the moss was a problem and if I remember correctly, this thing is super sustained on great stone.