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Top 40 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,786
Submitted By: Craig Quincy on May 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Steve T leading Top 40.

Description 

If there are 40 routes on Wall Street then this definitely ranks in the Top 40. I wouldn't plan a road trip around it, but this is worth doing if you're looking for one of the few 5.8 leads in the desert or a warm up.

This left facing corner is distinguished by two drilled angles at the top.Upward progress can be made via almost any climbing technique: laybacking, jamming, stemming, etc. Locate the route on the left side of the cliff before encountering the second top roping area. To its left lies Lacto Mangulation (5.10b) a right facing corner with several bolts and to its right is skeletron (sp?) a bolted 5.11d.

Descent: Short rap to ground ~ 50 feet.

It looks possible to climb passed the anchor on Top 40 via a thin hand crack and achieve the top of the anchor on skeletron.

Protection 

Standard rack (nuts fit in a couple spots) + 2 quickdraws for the drill angles.


Photos of Top 40 Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the top of Top 40.
Looking down from the top of Top 40.
Jessica laybacking toward the P1 anchors.
Jessica laybacking toward the P1 anchors.
Joe Simon on Top 40
Joe Simon on Top 40
Top 40.
Top 40.

Comments on Top 40 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Russell
May 10, 2003

One of the few 5.8's in the desert? If you can't find an overabundance of 5.8 you're not looking very hard, or at all.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
May 15, 2003

I thought this was a pretty fun route. It's easier than it looks. It's not only possible to climb the finger crack up and right of the anchors, it's part of the route and worth doing IMO. Barring communication issues and another party ascending Skeletron, these two short pitches can be combined. Be mindful of the loose blocks on the ledge near the Skeletron anchors.
By Rhett Burroughs
From: Valdosta, GA
Oct 18, 2007

Seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Maybe because I was worn out from the day.. I dunno!
By JeffUT
From: Roy, Utah
May 24, 2010

There's a nice ledge to stand on to the right of the belay anchors. I ended up setting a #3 Friend before I got to the first bolt. Fun route.
By Jesse Western
From: ogden utah
Oct 28, 2010

Cool route man... I think Jorma Hayes is the culprit behind this first ascent! Ya baby! I'll give the dude a buzz, I'm pretty sure though :)
By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Oct 24, 2011

Somebody pounded in a piton about 6' up this route, they obviously put it in standing on that little ledge. Sure, the beginning is a little tricky, but seriously, a piton? It's since been removed.