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If there are 40 routes on Wall Street then this definitely ranks in the Top 40. I wouldn't plan a road trip around it, but this is worth doing if you're looking for one of the few 5.8 leads in the desert or a warm up.
This left facing corner is distinguished by two drilled angles at the top.Upward progress can be made via almost any climbing technique: laybacking, jamming, stemming, etc. Locate the route on the left side of the cliff before encountering the second top roping area. To its left lies Lacto Mangulation (5.10b) a right facing corner with several bolts and to its right is skeletron (sp?) a bolted 5.11d.
Descent: Short rap to ground ~ 50 feet.
It looks possible to climb passed the anchor on Top 40 via a thin hand crack and achieve the top of the anchor on skeletron.
Standard rack (nuts fit in a couple spots) + 2 quickdraws for the drill angles.
Looking down from the top of Top 40.
Joe Simon on Top 40
Steve T leading Top 40.
|By Dan Russell|
May 10, 2003
One of the few 5.8's in the desert? If you can't find an overabundance of 5.8 you're not looking very hard, or at all.
|By Scott Conner|
From: Lyons, CO
May 15, 2003
I thought this was a pretty fun route. It's easier than it looks. It's not only possible to climb the finger crack up and right of the anchors, it's part of the route and worth doing IMO. Barring communication issues and another party ascending Skeletron, these two short pitches can be combined. Be mindful of the loose blocks on the ledge near the Skeletron anchors.
|By Rhett Burroughs|
From: Valdosta, GA
Oct 18, 2007
Seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Maybe because I was worn out from the day.. I dunno!
From: Roy, Utah
May 24, 2010
There's a nice ledge to stand on to the right of the belay anchors. I ended up setting a #3 Friend before I got to the first bolt. Fun route.
|By Jesse Western|
From: ogden utah
Oct 28, 2010
Cool route man... I think Jorma Hayes is the culprit behind this first ascent! Ya baby! I'll give the dude a buzz, I'm pretty sure though :)
|By John Braun|
From: Hendersonville, NC
Oct 24, 2011
Somebody pounded in a piton about 6' up this route, they obviously put it in standing on that little ledge. Sure, the beginning is a little tricky, but seriously, a piton? It's since been removed.