Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Sunset North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure 
Alpha Omega 
Arena, The 
Beginner's Route 
Bill's Route 
Broemel's Route 
Broken Arrow 
Bubble Bath 
Crazy Eights 
Fault Line 
Flute Loops 
Friday the Thirteenth 
Ghost Dancers 
Grand Cave, The 
Heavy Hands 
Horribilus Maximus 
Jams and Shams 
Jefferson Airplane 
Jennifer's World 
Lefthand Crack 
Lichen to Lose It 
Mineral Fright 
More Fun with Dick and Jane 
Prisoners of Zenda 
Prow, The 
R.J. Gold 
Righthand Crack 
Rusty's Crack 
Scare Voyager 
Scream Wall 
Scream Wall Direct 
Slip Stream 
Spring Break 
Stan's Crack 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish 
Sticht in Time 
Sunset Boulevard 
Terrier in Trouble 
Test Tube 
Thin Pockets 
Total Eclipse 
Water in Motion 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Robinson, '79
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on May 21, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Climb Stan's Crack for about 10 feet, balance your way to the right until you are below a thin crack. Fingerlock and crimp your way to a rest. Pumpy climbing on slopers leads to the top.


On the face/thin crack to the right of Stan's Crack.


Lots of small stuff. Rap rings at the top.

Comments on Toothpick Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blake Allen Green
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Protection in order of appearance" 1 or 2 #2 c4 for the first part of Stan's, reach really high in the dihedral and sling it long (48"), a .4 c4 goes in the roof at the start of the traverse. At the end of the traverse, #1 metolius followed by #1 c4, then yellow metolius and .75 c4 get you to the top safely, a yellow wire will protect the last crux if you want it.

Watch out for a loose crimp at the start of the traverse.

Except for the start of Stan's, the whole thing climbs like a face route and all the gear placements are matched with the best holds and best stances. Go get it!