|By Blake Allen Green|
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Protection in order of appearance" 1 or 2 #2 c4 for the first part of Stan's, reach really high in the dihedral and sling it long (48"), a .4 c4 goes in the roof at the start of the traverse. At the end of the traverse, #1 metolius followed by #1 c4, then yellow metolius and .75 c4 get you to the top safely, a yellow wire will protect the last crux if you want it.
Watch out for a loose crimp at the start of the traverse.
Except for the start of Stan's, the whole thing climbs like a face route and all the gear placements are matched with the best holds and best stances. Go get it!