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 ADVANCED
Broken Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack T 

Tooth Pac 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Keith Brett, Luke Mehall
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 933
Submitted By: Luke Mehall on Apr 1, 2011

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Tooth Pac's upper section climbs the hand crack le...

Description 

A great route, that might prove to be a popular warm-up and/or adventurous endeavor for the climber breaking into solid 5.10 at the Creek.

Currently the route is the farthest on the right side of Broken Tooth. It is just right of the climb Snaggle Tooth.

A #6 camalot is key to protecting the off-width section that climbs above the ledge.

2 Pac Forever!

Location 

Right side of Broken Tooth. Try to spot the second pitch on the hike over. It is just left of a very obvious dihedral (a sucker crack, by the way). There is an anchor of 2 bolts at the top of this crack, and as of March 2011, some scars on the rock from cleaning.

Protection 

(2-3).4 camalot, (2) .5 camalot (3) .75 camalot (1) #1 camalot (5) #2 camalot (2) #3 camalot (1) #4 camalot (1) #6 camalot.



Photos of Tooth Pac Slideshow Add Photo
Keith Brett on Tooth Pac, on the third ascent. We liked this route so much after putting it up, we did a couple more laps up it the next day.
Keith Brett on Tooth Pac, on the third ascent. We ...
The start of Tooth Pac.
The start of Tooth Pac.
A plaque marks the start of Tooth Pac.
A plaque marks the start of Tooth Pac.

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