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Broken Tooth
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Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack T 

Tooth Fairy 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Craig Luebben
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: snowhazed on Mar 20, 2010

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Giulia Luebben age 9 on "Tooth Fairy" originally p...

Description 

Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At the end the corner starts to separate and gear would be hard to find and awkward to place- just run it about 12 feet switching to left side in and make an exciting heel hook to gain the top of the right side of the corner. Yeah!


Location 

To the right of Unbelievable


Protection 

Lots of wide stuff and believe it or not a few med-lrg nuts.



Photos of Tooth Fairy Slideshow Add Photo
happy after done with 20 pound  rack : single from 0.4-#3 , 2#4, 4#5, 2#6
happy after done with 20 pound rack : single from...
Roberto enrolls in O-Dubya University
Roberto enrolls in O-Dubya University
Comments on Tooth Fairy Add Comment
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By Patrick Kingsbury
Mar 27, 2010

FA: Craig Luebben

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Relentless!!!!
Evil!!!
Grueling!!!!

Do I need to say more????

Absolutely amazing, sustained forever, many BD #5 (new style).......

The start wasn't too bad for me as I got great stacks, but further up the stacks turned really crappy....... The pod is fun, both getting into and out of......

A 70 meter rope works perfectly, but just, so pay attention!!!!

The ultimate climb for screaming barfies.......

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

did not find good nut placement ( #6 instead) and no heel hook.
My gear was in Camalots:
single from 0.4-#3 , 2#4, 4#5, 2#6