Tooth Fairy 

Pretty good route. Two somewhat difficult moves with a sharp hold, then the route eased off to maybe 5.9, a sleeper for anyone who'd on-sight the bottom, which was well protected with easy clips. Flexibility and height help. I don't know what sequence went on the FA, but "belly to the bolts" it felt like hard 5.10/easy 5.11. Disclaimer given that I hardly ever sport climb, so local grades at this crag generally seemed a little easy.

If you find this under your pillow be thankful your sweet uncle is a softy, 5.10+.SK.

Clip the second bolt and thereafter the route drops to 5.8/5.9. The runouts above are on JUGS. Seems as though the bottom can be done two ways. Straight up is a reach to a jug, but the left face has some interesting stems to a big fin and is a bit more difficult. The start is a bit sharp.

Many wrong-headed grading comments again. 11c is correct -- actually a harder [crux than] the near-by 5.12s, but so bouldery and short-lived that there is no pump factor. Nice 5.10- climbing to the anchor when the business is over.

Anyone can downgrade. Good upgrading requires real knowledge.

Wrong-headed? What's next, thought crime? Big brother comes Anon coward in the night? Do I catch your logic right that it takes right thinking to upgrade, but that if you find an easy sequence to a climb and you are in fact in the majority there, that you are somehow 'wrong headed' and mentally defective? Sheesh... 11c is hard for me and this climb was a trot. Perhaps the 5.12s nearby are overgraded too, because I on-sighted a few of them as well, FOR WARM-UPS. I guess I'm wrong headed... my head is all wrong! Can someone help me get right-headed? Fix my mental defect that allowed such easy passage of this "5.11c" climb?

Wrong thinking will be punished, right thinking will be as swiftly rewarded.

I remember this climb being a little dicey at the start, but protected well....but that could be my height advantage.

I highly recommend this climb to the 5.9 climber wanting to break into the 11s. It was fun and painless, two stars.

The start is hard, nothing else is. Traverse above the second bolt is a little nerve wracking.

I agree with the above comment that the rightward traverse across the roof (after making the second clip) is a little nerve-wracking. It's not steep but the feet are thin and the handholds are tenuous. I also think that the crux of this route is easier than the crux of The Scientist (11a/b). The upper part of the climb is easier and pleasant.

Did both of the starting variations, very different styles of climbing but felt fairly similar in difficulty, maybe 11a or so. Did the left hand start first, and found getting to the 3rd bolt (above on the slabby area) kind of daunting. Something about the orientation of the hands and feet that made it kind of insecure, despite the holds being pretty good. I didn't really snooze through that section. Once you get past that, the climbing is pretty fun.