The Hardest route on this small section of cliff to the right of Tales From the Crimp (5.12b) and the only one that is all bolted. A very cool and challenging climb on steep rock that eases up in angle at the top but increases in difficulty as well.
Start on the same steep powerful moves as Tool Story but continue following bolts straight up. The angle eases up a bit and around this point the good holds run out and you climb some pretty tough moves on slopers and small holds to the anchor.
Same start as Tool Story (5.10b) but follow the bolts straight up.
3 bolts to anchor
jeff, trying to onsight
talk to the hand
|By Chad Laflamme|
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 21, 2009
Very awkward crux. I tried to muscle it the first couple times, did not go over well. Tricky beta makes the moves much easier; don't worry I won't spoil it though.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Nov 16, 2012
I went into this climb knowing my friends had once flailed. Awkward or tricky is pretty accurate. Cool technique once you figure out what you want to do. :)