Up flakes on Wild Things (don't trust flake for pro) to a stance on horizontal ledge leading to right. Walk on air across traverse to stance below roof and in corner. Up to roof then out right to hidden, hanging off hands crack to anchors right of final outside corner.
Expert trad lead until supplimental bolts will protect nearly unprotectable start. Soon to be bolted by Dahlberg.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 11, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R
optional start: climb five feet up the flake and hand traverse out the obvious horizontal crack. after ten feet or so you'll come to a huge jug/flake (takes pro). from here, make a big move up and right to the crack system.
no need to add a bolt. the move from the pedestal to the crack can be protected with a purple or a silver tcu. once on the crack, you can also immediately plug in a yellow, or orange tcu.
fun climb. i wish the main crack system went on a hundred feet longer!! :)
|By Ryan Justen|
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13
#2 C4 for initial traverse
A nut and/or #1 C3 to protect move into crack,
A nut and/or #2 C3 for 1st move in crack
C4 0.75 to 3 for the crack
I found the traverse to the crack to be not too hard (but I'm 6'2"), The runout from the crack to the anchors was a bit heady for me, but I slung the top of the flake where it meets the wall. Must do route, especially if you're waiting in line for Sigma.