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Sigma Wall
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Nakoma (formerly The Niche) S 
Nexus S 
Sigma S 
Tool Boy T 
Wild Things T 

Tool Boy 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Season: Fall
Page Views: 2,047
Submitted By: Shawn P. Tracy on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Up flakes on Wild Things (don't trust flake for pro) to a stance on horizontal ledge leading to right. Walk on air across traverse to stance below roof and in corner. Up to roof then out right to hidden, hanging off hands crack to anchors right of final outside corner.

Location 

Sigma Wall

Protection 

Expert trad lead until supplimental bolts will protect nearly unprotectable start. Soon to be bolted by Dahlberg.


Photos of Tool Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Brandon in the perfect hand crack near the top of ...
Brandon in the perfect hand crack near the top of ...
The unprotect traverse.  Don't fall here on lead.
The unprotect traverse. Don't fall here on lead.
Adjusting his "tool belt"
Adjusting his "tool belt"

Comments on Tool Boy Add Comment
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By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 11, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

optional start: climb five feet up the flake and hand traverse out the obvious horizontal crack. after ten feet or so you'll come to a huge jug/flake (takes pro). from here, make a big move up and right to the crack system.

no need to add a bolt. the move from the pedestal to the crack can be protected with a purple or a silver tcu. once on the crack, you can also immediately plug in a yellow, or orange tcu.

fun climb. i wish the main crack system went on a hundred feet longer!! :)
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Great route!

For gear:
#2 C4 for initial traverse
A nut and/or #1 C3 to protect move into crack,
A nut and/or #2 C3 for 1st move in crack
C4 0.75 to 3 for the crack

I found the traverse to the crack to be not too hard (but I'm 6'2"), The runout from the crack to the anchors was a bit heady for me, but I slung the top of the flake where it meets the wall. Must do route, especially if you're waiting in line for Sigma.