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Too Tight for Pleasure 

Too Tight for Pleasure 

WI4 M3

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus: WI4 M3 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Mar 17, 2013

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Climber works up the chimney of Too Tight for Plea...

Description 

If you like super tight chimneys, this one is for you. It's really a variation to Unexpected Pleasure, as it shares the first section of that route.

P1: Go up the easy ice flow and into the gully. Continue up the gully to a tree belay on the left. Continue another 20', then break out of the gully on the right (1 awkward move here). Traverse right 30' to the base a position below the tight chimney 30' above you.

P2: Climb over a bulge and up another bulge to the entrance to the hanging chimney. Squirm up the chimney (hard at first, then easier) to a tree belay on the left.

Descent: Climb 10' up and left to a tree and rappel with two ropes down the Unexpected Pleasure gully.

Location 

Left side of the cliff, below an obvious flow of ice (the only one that reaches the ground) that drains a gully.

Protection 

Small rock rack and some screws.


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Looking down the chimney of Too Tight for Pleasure.
Looking down the chimney of Too Tight for Pleasure...

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